Cooked brakes?

[tom023]

Less than a year ago I fitted oem replacement blueprint front discs and pads along with new fluid while bleeding the system.
I've noticed that when I get on the brakes hard and repeatedly I start to get vibration through the brake pedal (and slightly through the steering wheel).
Driving normally I don't have the problem. I'm guessing I've warped the discs on one to many freaking insane runs.

Any ideas?
Should I look into a pad and disc setup better suited for their application in standard size, or is there a noticeable difference fitting the ATR setup?

EDIT: Why is it that when I write "s.p.i.r.i.t.e.d" it shows up as "freaking insane" on the post?

[JEBB4]

Less than a year ago I fitted oem replacement blueprint front discs and pads along with new fluid while bleeding the system.
I've noticed that when I get on the brakes hard and repeatedly I start to get vibration through the brake pedal (and slightly through the steering wheel).
Driving normally I don't have the problem. I'm guessing I've warped the discs on one to many freaking insane runs.

Any ideas?
Should I look into a pad and disc setup better suited for their application in standard size, or is there a noticeable difference fitting the ATR setup?

EDIT: Why is it that when I write "s.p.i.r.i.t.e.d" it shows up as "freaking insane" on the post?

Your average "OEM" quality discs (which I think blueprint are a little less quality) on the front won't take much punishment to be honest, I had the same thing when I bought my bb4, I ended up buying a good quality pad (ferodo ds2500s) and an up market disc (brembo blank discs) with some braided hoses and some castrol racing brake fluid I never cooked the brakes again, and I really give them a hammering nearly every day for about a year..

Spend a little more and it will pay off...

[tom023]

Less than a year ago I fitted oem replacement blueprint front discs and pads along with new fluid while bleeding the system.
I've noticed that when I get on the brakes hard and repeatedly I start to get vibration through the brake pedal (and slightly through the steering wheel).
Driving normally I don't have the problem. I'm guessing I've warped the discs on one to many freaking insane runs.

Any ideas?
Should I look into a pad and disc setup better suited for their application in standard size, or is there a noticeable difference fitting the ATR setup?

EDIT: Why is it that when I write "s.p.i.r.i.t.e.d" it shows up as "freaking insane" on the post?

Your average "OEM" quality discs (which I think blueprint are a little less quality) on the front won't take much punishment to be honest, I had the same thing when I bought my bb4, I ended up buying a good quality pad (ferodo ds2500s) and an up market disc (brembo blank discs) with some braided hoses and some castrol racing brake fluid I never cooked the brakes again, and I really give them a hammering nearly every day for about a year..

Spend a little more and it will pay off...

I got the blueprint stuff with 40% off from my general parts supplier and I couldn't wait to drive the Lude as I had just bought it.
You learn from your mistakes I guess.

[Vtecmec]

The brembos are a quality product, I now run them on all my cars.

[Merlin]

The vibration is the indicator that something isn't right with your brakes. TBH they will need a breakdown and clean to see what is the problem. 9/10 times when I have brake judder is that my discs are goosed, commonly for me they are covered in heat cracks.

But it could be a stuck pad or slider pin.

After a drive I would see if any of your brakes are hotter than any of the others, if one or two are, that may show that there is an issue with that disc/pad.

[RattyMcClelland]

It's very difficult to warp a disc. Alot of people go to that issue straight away when in fact the pad material can be to blame and it can get stuck on the discs.

[lewd lude lover]

Agree with ratty. Very hard to warp discs. Sticky pot, glazed disc, geo out, wheel balance to check first.

[lewd lude lover]

Atr upgrade well worth it. Also 330mm disc convertion if you can find it.

[Max]

I agree with Ratty, it is difficult to warp your discs unless you're beating on them at a track imo. Its more likely to be the pad material unevenly distributed on the disc and ive had this before due to too much light braking.

I would try this, get a can of brake cleaner, dowse the discs front and back and wipe down with a paper towel. Now go out and re-bed your brake pads with some firm braking, ive done this before and it cured the problem, it may help you and a £5 can of brake cleaner is a damn sight cheaper than just replacing the discs.

[tom023]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.
I'll check the caliper temperatures as soon as I experience the vibration. I'll clean off the discs and pad surface aswell.
The problem only occurs when I really work the brakes. General day to day braking shows no sign of the vibration. That's why I thought it could be the disc warping under heat.
My father has got a dial to check for possible unevenness in the discs so I'll use that aswell (Can't remember the name).

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