Merlin's 4G Time Attack Lude

[Merlin]

Well some good news I got off the phone with AJ Kane and they say I do not need to replace all the needle bearings, only in extremely high milage cars like taxi's are these a problem. If I only have to replace the main bearings and seals it slashes a huge chunk off, at least £250 but I have the total cost spread sheet on another computer. So it looks like I will just stump up the cash to have the rebuild done as well as it can be.

The work will be carried out at the start of next month as I am away in the US for two weeks

[nucleustylzlude]

Ooh...I like that. Not a bad price depending on shipping. Mine has started to show some signs of surface rust. I like that it has the baffles, extra capacity, additional port (thinking either the oil pressure or an oil catch can return line), plus comes with new studs and bolts. It mentions it comes with a new oil pickup, but don't see anything in the picture? Unless the mean the return line port and just have bad terminology?

What do you reckon Merlin?

[nucleustylzlude]

Rob they state in the advert the oil pick up isnt pictured but it is included

So it does, my skim read clearly didn't cut it, almost like I should be getting on with stuff at work today!

[Merlin]

Cheers Mikey I'll have a proper gander at it when I get back from the US

[mynameisowen]

Merlin I've read this entire thread and I must say top stuff! You're doing what I aim to do soon with my EK4 and I gotta say great work. Good luck with your box build.



I'm doing my first track day in my EK4 this friday, have you got any pointers for a noob?

[Merlin]

Many thanks, my build is about to kick off again next week


Just make sure your brakes work properly and the car is in general good condition. Other than that save additional punishment to your brakes by coasting through a cool down lap, try and not touch the brake pedal Take it easy and build confidence before hooning it. Have a good one

[Merlin]

While I was waiting on the opportunity to get the engine and gearbox underway I looked at aero options. I heard a member had this in their possession so I offered to buy it Fingers crossed it will be fitted to the bottom of a replica Value Sports Type 1 front lip (flat bottomed)

ARP Performance Racing carbon fiber splitter:







It needs new beading along the front but other than that it is in decent nick for the cash I paid.

@4thgenphil I know you were after something similar.

Splitters

What is a splitter:
A splitter (a.k.a. "front splitter") is typically found on the front-end of a race car, appearing as a flat extension to the very bottom of the front bumper. This splitter extends straight out, parallel to the ground, and can be made of carbon fiber or other stiff material. It is attached to the bottom of the front bumper, and may also be supported by two or more support rods at some distance forward of the bumper mounting points. These support rods ensure that the splitter stays parallel to the ground, even when there are outside forces around the splitter.

What is an air dam:


An air dam (a.k.a. "front air dam") is usually a shaped part of the lower portion of the front bumper. It is sometimes called a "front lip" or "lip spoiler." It can be molded as part of the front bumper, or it can be a separate part that is attached at the front-lower portion of the front bumper. Unlike the splitter, the lip is not a flat "sheet" of material.

Besides looking cool, the splitter and air dam serve the following functions:
1. To reduce lift.
2. To help guide air to a useful location (i.e. radiator).

What goes on at the front-end of a car:


When a car travels at high speeds, the air pressure in front of the car can become very high. All this air ends up going both above the car (over the hood), and below the car (under the front bumper). When too much of this air gets under the front bumper, the under-car air pressure builds up. This increased air pressure contributes to lift, which causes the front-end of the car to lighten up, thereby reducing the amount of traction at the front of the car. This high pressure (and lower speed) air, when compared to the air speed above the car, will create situation where there is increased lift over the entire car. Typically, most production street cars, when traveling at higher speeds (60mph+) produce large amounts of positive lift.

How the front splitter and front air dam work:
What we want to have is lower pressure, faster-moving air below the car, and higher pressure, slower moving air above the car. The lower pressure side, when it happends to be under the car, contributes to reduced lift. When the lift is reduced sufficiently to the point where there is negative lift, then there is net positive downforce.



The splitter (or air dam) itself does not actually create downforce. What the splitter does is that it increases the area over which high pressure can build up. The more high pressure there is above the splitter, the greater the net downforce there is. Additionally, if there are openings in the front bumper (above the splitter or lip) for brake ducts or radiator cooling, this increased air pressure will encourage more air to flow into these openings.

When are splitters and air dams effective:
Splitters (and air dams) are effective when they are mounted close to ground level, and when they extend beyond the bottom of the front bumper. This maximizes the pressure area above the splitter, and maximizes the pressure differential between the top and bottom sides of the splitter.

When the splitter is mounted very close to ground level, considerations should be made to ensure that:
1. There is sufficient airflow to the engine bay and driveline components.
2. There is sufficient ground clearance for the available suspension travel.
3. The rear diffuser (if installed), still gets the fast-moving, low pressure air it needs in order to function properly.

[Merlin]

No not yet. I'll tackle that problem soon.

[Donald]

Looks like a decent bit of kit

[NafemanNathan]

Nice one Merlin Can wait to see the new front end

Any idea how much it weighs?