Honda-Hardy's type "s" express

[PerformanceAutoworks]

1, is the atts oil supplied by the gearbox and cooled by the rad using the standard gearbox oil, this is what i think is correct, or does the gearbox have a separate oil supply to the atts?

ATTS is totally seperate oil fom gearbox.
It is the ATTS ATF fluid that is cooled by the rad NOT the gearbox oil.
When changing the rad, clamp both ATTS hoses as low/near to the rad as possible to reduce amount of fluid loss.

2 if the atts oil supply is sepparate to the gearbox, what oil do i use?

ATF-D2 minimum but Honda ATF-Z1 would be prefered

3, if the oil is supplied by the gearbox then is it a case of removing the upper gearbox filler plug and topping up like a normal gearbox until it just starts to dribble out of the plug hole? this is what i think is correct.

Gearbox oil level is checked in the same way as all other manual Preludes but you have no need to do this as described in 1

4, if the atts has its own separate supply, how do i fill and blead the atts system.?

Unless you are fully drainig the whole system all you will need to do is the following - Procedure needs to be done on flat and level ground/ramp
ATTS has it's own filler and level plug plug on the n/s of the unit itself.
Remove level plug (small 10mm headed bolt) and top up level until dribbles out (slow fill). Refit level and fill plugs.
Road test car to get eveything up to temp being sure to take in some cornering to get the ATTS working and up to temp.
Switch off and recheck level - top up if required.

A full drain of the whole system is a little different but I'll not go into that here s it's too time consuming to type out and I have a workshop full of cars to get done

[honda-hardy]

thanks you very much for getting back to me, i am going to perform a full drain of the system, i have read the complete procedure and am very confident in doing this now. i have a 2 post ramp to use tomorrow to get the 4 wheels off the ground.

1, drain oil
2, re-install plug
3, fill with ATF-Z1 0.95ltrs
4, reinstall filler plug.
5, start engine, put in 2nd or 3rd gear, speedo to read 31mph for 1 min.
6, allow wheels to coast to stop and turn off engine.
7, wait 1 min.
8, remove inspection/check bolt attaching one of the cooler pipes and wait.
9, if after 6 mins the oil does not start to trickle out then top up is required and repeat procedure from 5.

[honda-hardy]

in with the sale of the s, came the original wheels. any idea if i should keep the ones already on the car or spray the wheels bronz/ gold like my avatar?

[W1ggz]

looks jobby mate.

[W1ggz]

Dam stupid tapatalk

[honda-hardy]

looks jobby mate.

you b4stard, using my own comments against me.

[gordonlear]

in with the sale of the s, came the original wheels. any idea if i should keep the ones already on the car or spray the wheels bronz/ gold like my avatar?

I almost had my alloys done bronze but decided to stick with silver.
The best bronze alloys are the one nitin had on his 5th.

[honda-hardy]

pictures?

[honda-hardy]

Fantastic news.... the "s" is back on the road.

here is the culprit, a split in the top of the rad, lucky in a way i suppose that it didn't happen on the 200+mile journey home with it.



so out with the old...



swap all the fans and atts cooling pipes. and in with the new.



i also fitted the obx cooling hoses from my old 4th gen.

also to fill the atts fluid level i had to remove the passenger front wheel to get to the filler plug and noticed this.



whoever fitted the front pads had pushed the shim off of the pad and into the hub area of the disc. must have made a horrendous noise first time mark drove it. look at the score marking,

also changed the engine oil and filter and cleaned the itg panel filter.

whilst up on the ramp i gave the car a good looking over. no rust whatsoever. except on the join for the sexhaust center pipe to the back box
only a few little niggles to sort out now. slight play in the d bushes and 1 link arm on the front anti-roll bar.
few small oil leaks, one from the vtec solenoid, one from the sump gasket i think.
and another issue that could have been a nightmare.. removing the sump plug, nearly all of the threads pulled out with the plug, but fortunately the sump is quite thick and still had 6 or so threads deeper in to the sump, so as i was at a mates service garage he had an abundance of new plugs in a kit box, and one was identical but longer and even had a magnetic tip. so in that went.

valvoline oil and blueprint filter and 1 ltr of atf-z1 oil later and thats me done for now. next for the gearbox oil.



took it up the road and it feels snappier and more responsive, so to celibrate, i washed her.

and here she is.









3rd gen in the shaddows of the "s"


but the most urgent thing to find now is a new inlet pipe, the old one is split badly.



do they fit from other models or is this "S" specific?

[gordonlear]