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"Front damper to fork" locating thingy
Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion
- honda-hardy
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Post by honda-hardy » Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:13 am
i always remove the top wishbone from inside of the boot via the 2 bolts. you can swing the wishbone out of the way and it gives you more flex at the bottom arm and less pressure. trust me its so much easier. ask i proved when doing @amoroso's rears.
honda-hardy
- Angus
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Post by Angus » Sat Apr 20, 2013 4:31 pm
Aye, you're right. I thought about that, but thought I'd give the crowbar a chance first. Got them both done in the end, mostly by applying full body weight to force the rest of the suspension down. The passenger side one seemed much less keen to be fiddled out of the small gap available - but maybe I'd just figured the best way to do it by the time I did the driver side. 
Bit of a pig getting the holes to line up to get the bottom bolt through, but all sorted now. Hopefully i won't have to worry about shockers for a while. Next up before MoT time - rear brake discs, which I'm sure I've done before. As long as the caliper carriers come off I should be OK with that.
Thanks for all the help.

Bit of a pig getting the holes to line up to get the bottom bolt through, but all sorted now. Hopefully i won't have to worry about shockers for a while. Next up before MoT time - rear brake discs, which I'm sure I've done before. As long as the caliper carriers come off I should be OK with that.
Thanks for all the help.

Angus
- honda-hardy
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honda-hardy
- Angus
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- My Generation: 4G
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Post by Angus » Mon Apr 22, 2013 3:44 pm
I was just thinking ...
Rear struts again, both sides. I had a real pig of a job getting the bottom bolt to line up through the LCA bushing, eventually managing it by levering one end of it into place long enough for the bolt to take a hold.
Is it possible, by loosening or removing the top nut (in the boot) while leaving the two "top-hat" nuts tightened, to physically twist the strut into its proper position in relation to the LCA bushing? I'm not entirely happy that I had to apply force to get it to line up (was probably about 5 degrees from straight), with the consequence that the bush is probably not lying straight now, and therefore under stress.
If it's the case that you can do that, then I probably could have done the same thing on the front to get the locating tab to line up with the lower fork.
Rear struts again, both sides. I had a real pig of a job getting the bottom bolt to line up through the LCA bushing, eventually managing it by levering one end of it into place long enough for the bolt to take a hold.
Is it possible, by loosening or removing the top nut (in the boot) while leaving the two "top-hat" nuts tightened, to physically twist the strut into its proper position in relation to the LCA bushing? I'm not entirely happy that I had to apply force to get it to line up (was probably about 5 degrees from straight), with the consequence that the bush is probably not lying straight now, and therefore under stress.
If it's the case that you can do that, then I probably could have done the same thing on the front to get the locating tab to line up with the lower fork.
Angus
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