Cambelt change

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 4:48 pm

Every 5k along with an oilchange.

Oh wait I don't own an EVO 6.

LewisH · Post by **LewisH** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 4:55 pm

Me being a fussy ass, on my last 2 cars i done the belt when i bought the car (if no evidence of a belt being done) and then 10-15k later i re-done it. But thats me being a fussy ass with OCD.

Lewis -

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 5:10 pm

I agree with you doing it when you bought it to be safe, i did. But yer after 15k miles you are an OCD fussy ass.

LewisH · Post by **LewisH** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 5:20 pm

Haha. Yes. Welll on my last car it was when i done the engine work so i thought sod it!

PerformanceAutoworks · Post by **PerformanceAutoworks** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:12 am

The timing belt interval is every 60k or 5 years - whichever comes first.

The confusion (60k or 70k) comes from when Honda "stretched" this change interval when the service schedules changed from 99 onwards. Then belt change intervals were extended to 72k or 6years.
The belts were not upgraded (as I have seen some suggest), the parts are exactly the same, it's just that Honda wanted to bring servicing costs down (per 100k life period) to make them more attractive to fleet buyers. This bit them in the arse a bit as quite a few cars didn't make it 72k!
If you stick to 60k or 5 years you will not go wrong!!!!

Manual tensioner conversions
These are not "fit and forget", there is no hard and fast tension check period but I recommend a tension check and adjust at 30k. If the belt is tensioned correctly in the first place there should be no need to re-check after 1k.

NOTE: These periods are for factory standard cars.

If the car is being used regularly on track, revs higher than standard, has upgraded valvetrain/cams then all this should be taken into consideration and the replacement interval reduced accordingly.
Again, there is no hard and fast rule for this -
Example 1 - a Prelude with ATR head (or ATR cams,valvetrain)is effectively a standard setup as far as the belt is concerned but if it is being used hard on track or has a higher rev limit then I would suggest dropping the interval by 10k to be safe.
Example 2 - a Prelude/ATR with uprated valvetrain (Supertech/Crower/Skunk2) + high lift cams puts alot more load through the timing belt than a standard setup. Add the fact that most of these will be revving higher and will be used harder would suggest dropping the change interval even further - 40k with a tension check/re-set at 20k (if on manual system)

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:17 am

And thus, information peace was restored once more

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:19 am

Rep and Wiki that post!

A1ex · Post by **A1ex** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:51 am

Knew you'd know the answer, thanks for taking the time to post Rich

I like how you've used my motor & lude-dudes motor as examples too, very helpful

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:55 am

Agreed.
In fact, the only thing I'm disappointed about is that it didn't start with:

'Right, listen up 'tards..'

Buzzonion Vtec · Post by **Buzzonion Vtec** » Thu Jan 17, 2013 4:36 pm

Lol, wasn't really pointing at specific cars but just a general idea to cover the most common mods really

For other specific setups with higher comp, wild cams or seriously hard use the change interval should be discussed with your engine builder. For example my race car probably covers maybe a 1-1.5k per season but that is pretty much all flat out running.. It gets a new belt every season! !