Lude Generation

Dbo · Post by **Dbo** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:30 pm

No I tried it. You can't read any code! Lifted the car and tried cleaning it, dropped the car back down and it started working.
Then light came on a day later Will did a battery reset and it started working again for a day and stopped again. Maybe somethingas simple as an abs sensor needs cleaning?

Post by **indigolemon** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:39 pm

That's very strange! I assume the power connectors onto the ecu are 100%? People like to tap them for amps, can sometimes leave a mess behind.

Post by **Peachy** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:31 pm

Will try paperclip test again tomorrow.

YouTube · Post by **Sailor** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:37 pm

hondansxr wrote:has any one had thier non working 4ws turn whilst they have been driving ...?

I remain unconvinced that electrical 4WS is reliable in high mileage, older cars.
Mine didn't work for ages and it seemed fine. When it was finally fixed, it wasn't for long. I was using it again without any noticeable problem, until it suddenly decided to work on two very slow bends: car all over the shop! I didn't drive it much after that until the 4WS worked again.
The lesson? Either fit 2WS or get the 4WS working!

Post by **indigolemon** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:23 am

Sailor wrote:I remain unconvinced that electrical 4WS is reliable in high mileage, older cars.

155k, 1994 UKDM - working fine

bennyboy · Post by **bennyboy** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:49 am

180k, 1994 UKDM - working fine

I do get sick of the all 4WS will kill you crap, it's like anything else, it needs to be maintained.
Don't forget, this is a system that will trip if the brake light goes.....it's connected to a lot of stuff and I'm sure that at least half the time, the problem isn't even the 4WS, it's the abs sensor, or the CV gaitor has gone and chucked grease all over it, or a brake bulb etc etc. Unfortunately, lots of folk see that little light come up and panic the jobby out of themselves. I only know of one 'true' 4WS fault, similar to the main relay solder issue.

I'm not saying it's perfect, and Sailor I'm not getting at you btw

, I just think it's like anything involving a car nearly 20 years old, it should be looked at with realistic goggles

Oh and no, I wouldn't drive it with any sort of enthusiasm if the light was on, I'd sort it.

Supermarine Blues · Post by **Supermarine Blues** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:07 pm

Indeed, Bennyboy. Well stated.

Plus it's all this b uggering about diagnosing it with divining rods & crystals that is a bit silly. Unless you use a logic gate, you will be frustrated. Christ help you if you end up with some of this modern rubbish that is all FREDs!

It's usually the same old problems; if it's not dry joints in the ECU, it's wet joints on the sensors which become corroded, or (as stated) butchered wiring by the MaccyD brigade.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:49 pm

ATTS is the same. Half the time its engine/abs/VSS related.

hondansxr · Post by **hondansxr** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:51 pm

ok so under pressure i went to my honda dealer they plugged it in and i have 2 faults
50 acual rera steering angle too high
20 front main/sub steering angle sensor outputs
the guy at honda said this is the only 4ws they have seen (new dealership) so didnt know too much about them ....

it did have an after market steering wheel on it but i have replaced that today with an s2000 and cut the notch out as on the original s wheel ..

Post by **Lude-dude** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:22 pm

aftermarket wheel without the notch has probably messed up the steering angle sensor

now you have changed it... you could try the reset

actuator steering angle too high? not sure what this could be

it may clear if you do the reset, see nitins guide on the forum