SRS light

[Scott560]

I found a clock spring in the garage, it would have come off my h22a5 ukdm VTi so should be what you are after. I could not find an SRS module I'm afraid...

I have also checked the pinout.

IMG-20230928-WA0028.jpg

Here you can see car side SRS in yellow going off the top of the picture, SRS wheel side is left 2 most pins, cruise next 3 and the horn earth last-ish. The last space on the wheel side is a filled blank.

IMG-20230928-WA0027.jpg

This is the mapping, black side is looking at the rotary coupler as per the next picture. The green side is the wire side of the green plug, hopefully the diagram and an empty slot will help you orientate. Note the the spade terminal is shared with a connection on the green cruise plug also.

IMG-20230928-WA0025.jpg

I've called these 1,2,3 and 4 reading from left to right as you see them.

IMG-20230928-WA0026.jpg

These are the 2 yellow SRS connectors. The polarity of them shouldn't matter, but as pictured, they are crossed since I'm holding them wrong. Eg top left goes to bottom right, top right goes to bottom left.

You should have enough info to check, or get, it wired correctly. If you still cannot let me know and I can be persuaded to part with the coupler.

It's easy to say not to worry about the airbag etc, but you may find it harder to pass an MOT without one.

[wurlycorner]

It's easy to say not to worry about the airbag etc, but you may find it harder to pass an MOT without one.

Any fault light on the dash is a failure.

[jdeale84]

That's very helpful thank you, I've doubled checked the part I ordered, it certainly says it fits my car which is a 1998 BB6/8 with 185hp so in this case I might try and match up those connections you've just showed me even if it means a bit of rewiring and that might not only fix my cruise and horn but also at least get rid of those 2 initial codes on for the SRS. If it all goes well that means all i need is too replace the SRS unit then I should be back to what it is was. If not, then I might have to persuade you to sell me your clock spring. I'll let you know how it goes

Any fault light on the dash is a failure.

Last MOT I just took the blub out. Currently there are a lot of screws and plastic panels sitting in my car as I'm tired of taking everything apart.

[jdeale84]

Good news!
I got a clock spring off a breaking lude and my cruise control is back! I need to rewire my horn to it but that should work if the cruise control is working. Airbag is still broken but planning on also just nabbing one off a breaking lude so it should all be fixed! Only took me 3 clock springs

[jdeale84]

Does anyone have a spare SRS module that I can buy off of them? Still got the light on my dash

[Scott560]

Have you performed the continuity tests with the 'clock spring' unplugged (both from the car and from the airbag side)? Do all the wires have continuity from the back side to the front side? If you are not sure on electricity, a simple youtube search should show you how to perform a continuity test. A continuity test checks that a path/wire/conductor is complete. Faulty clocksprings will not have continuity in some part (due to internal damage, due to age or incorrect fitment (over-turned/ripped).

On your multimeter/tester, find the setting that makes it beep when you hold the 2 probes together. If you don't have a beep mode, you can use a resistance test and check the resistance goes very low (you can test this by putting the 2 probes together to see what continuity looks like, then do the test by putting one probe on one end of the clockspring pin, and the other on the other end). If you are feeling more confident at this stage, print out the pictures I posted above, and then check that you have the correct rotary coupler, so that the pins have continuity to the correct pins (eg, check that the part has the right pins joined up to the right pins). Given that some parts are hard to get hold of, it's likely you may be sent broken or incorrect parts. I went to some trouble to provide all the information so you can be sure. If you cannot be sure of any particular step in the fault finding process, you cannot proceed and nothing will be gained from any efforts.

Once you have confirmed all the individual pins have continuity from the car side pins to the steering wheel side pins, you can refit it to the car and rule it out of the equation (making sure it is correctly/properly centred as previously detailed).

What codes do you get now? If you only get 1-1, then it is likely the SRS module has been damaged by the previous rewiring attempts or by the incorrect use of the multimeter (or both).

DO NOT use the multimeter to check the airbag or the car wiring.

Fair number of 5th gens being broken on ebay.

[jdeale84]

The codes I've got are 1-1, 7-2 and 1-1. Yes I used a mulit-meter on it and that is probably 100% the reason it broke.
My mistake, lesson learnt. Oh well, found one on ebay for £50 so hopefully that does the trick.