Near side (left) drive shaft for 1995 2.2 VTEC MANUAL

uberNoobZA · Post by **uberNoobZA** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:15 am

I'm looking for the near side (left) drive shaft for my MANUAL 1995 2.2 VTEC Prelude

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:36 am

Just for clarification, do you need the whole shaft (inc the intermediate shaft)? or just the outer shaft?

uberNoobZA · Post by **uberNoobZA** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:05 am

Merlin wrote:Just for clarification, do you need the whole shaft (inc the intermediate shaft)? or just the outer shaft?

Sorry, I have no idea. Basically, when I was doing the polybushing, and removed lower and upper control arms the knuckle, hub etc. 'fell forward' a bit far, with the drive shaft still connected (i.e. I hadn't removed the 36mm retaining nut) - the boot on the hub end of the drive shaft actually got pulled down the drive shaft. I put it back as it was (or thought I did), but now if I turn the drive shaft, the wheel doesn't turn and vice versa) and I hear a sort of grinding (I think from inside the drive shaft boot / hub). As the drive shaft is still in the hub, I was told the drive shaft has come apart inside the boot, and I need a replacement drive shaft. See attached image for area in red where is hounds like the noise is coming from (not sure which is left or right in picture)

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:33 am

Drive shafts don't fall apart in a way they cannot be put back together. It sounds like the spider bearings have come off the end of the shaft. The boot needs to be taken off, the bearings need put back on and the shaft needs to be put back in properly.

Have a read of the service manual as it shows how the shaft is put together

uberNoobZA · Post by **uberNoobZA** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:40 am

Thanks Merlin - As soon as I can find a 36mm socket (dunno why Honda decided to use 36mm on this car...) I'll get the hub and drive shaft off and have a look.

Post by **indigolemon** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:41 am

What Merlin said man, messy job - but not too painful. I've done the exact same thing when swapping out shocks

Post by **vanzep** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 1:51 pm

if its the outer CV then you can get an aftermarket kit that included the CV joint, cv boot, bands, grease and circlip and hub nut.
Sometimes these old CV joints are too rusty and manky to handle

Ive fitted aftermarket outer CV joints on my BB1.
Shaftec was the Brand and i can try and find you a link on ebay - think they were only £12-£15 each.

Ive got a few oem vtec driveshafts and cv joints here but they weigh a ton so would prob cost about £50 delivered for a shaft.

I managed to fit the aftermarket cv joints with a big pair of pliers, some snips and a club hammer - it also helps if youve got a vice or something to hold the shaft in when working on it.

Hope this helps

Post by **vanzep** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:06 pm

here is one on ebay for a few quid- hope all the parts are still in the box

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shaftec-JVC9 ... Sw9LpZ0Mj6

comline ones are ok as well

its ok to use abs cv joints on non abs ludes.

uberNoobZA · Post by **uberNoobZA** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:10 pm

vanzep wrote:here is one on ebay for a few quid- hope all the parts are still in the box
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shaftec-JVC9 ... Sw9LpZ0Mj6

comline ones are ok as well

its ok to use abs cv joints on non abs ludes.

I see it's for a 2.3. Would that work on my 2.2 ?

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:30 pm

It sounds like you need to know exactly what is wrong before you go and get new parts. From your initial desription it sounds like an inner CV problem rather than outer CV.

If it is an inner CV problem it sounds like it just needs to be put back together. Outer CV joints need replaced as there is not a lot you can do with them.