Yet another 4WS thread

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:54 pm

Well after second thought, seems like the same issue i had. You will not be able to do error codes reset becouse of the error 20. This situation seems like a cursed circle if you give it enought thought

my guess would be dead sub sensor, becouse in main sensor theres really nothing to break.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:58 pm

Alignment.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:32 pm

There's plenty you can do - depending on what the fault is.
Get the codes, check the manual and go from there...
The locking pins for alignment can be bought on here for not a huge amount (or see if someone on here will lend you one)

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:30 am

no0ne wrote:Its just a simple potenciometer ( dont know if exact word exists, but it just gives different voltage based on needle position). You can remove it and check if its needle is moving freely. If yes, but error 20 is still present after reseting error codes, try checking if voltage is coming to the ecu. If not, well theres your problem.
In my case needle was stuck, therefore no 4ws for me, but i found this only after changing main steering sensor and alot of cursing.

OK, if its a simple potentiometer then this makes things a lot easier.
I would need a range of its resistance in which it moves to check if its good, and some procedure / manual how to remove it? Excuse me if i'm too inexperienced, but I dont have a clue where this sensor is and how to get to it.. Its my first car, but im learning fast tho..

no0ne wrote:Well after second thought, seems like the same issue i had. You will not be able to do error codes reset becouse of the error 20. This situation seems like a cursed circle if you give it enought thought my guess would be dead sub sensor, becouse in main sensor theres really nothing to break.

Yep, its a never-ending loop, cant reset an error because of the error

To me it seems like the 4WS ECU doesn't know where the steering wheel /rack is. Because at the start of the paperclip reset procedure, the 4ws light goes off for a few seconds as if it is trying to check if the driver is trying to reset.. but since some sensor is not working, the 4ws system doesnt see that the wheel is at 45 degrees, and goes into " normal" code reporting / flashing..

My amateur 2 cents

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:35 am

wurlycorner wrote:There's plenty you can do - depending on what the fault is.
Get the codes, check the manual and go from there...
The locking pins for alignment can be bought on here for not a huge amount (or see if someone on here will lend you one)

Do we know the dimensions of the tool? I'm pretty certain I could make some pins to have on stock (im from mainland europe so I cant really ask anyone here to lend me the tool)

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 8:33 am

Anzezaf wrote:
no0ne wrote:Its just a simple potenciometer ( dont know if exact word exists, but it just gives different voltage based on needle position). You can remove it and check if its needle is moving freely. If yes, but error 20 is still present after reseting error codes, try checking if voltage is coming to the ecu. If not, well theres your problem.
In my case needle was stuck, therefore no 4ws for me, but i found this only after changing main steering sensor and alot of cursing.
OK, if its a simple potentiometer then this makes things a lot easier.
I would need a range of its resistance in which it moves to check if its good, and some procedure / manual how to remove it? Excuse me if i'm too inexperienced, but I dont have a clue where this sensor is and how to get to it.. Its my first car, but im learning fast tho..

no0ne wrote:Well after second thought, seems like the same issue i had. You will not be able to do error codes reset becouse of the error 20. This situation seems like a cursed circle if you give it enought thought my guess would be dead sub sensor, becouse in main sensor theres really nothing to break.
Yep, its a never-ending loop, cant reset an error because of the error
To me it seems like the 4WS ECU doesn't know where the steering wheel /rack is. Because at the start of the paperclip reset procedure, the 4ws light goes off for a few seconds as if it is trying to check if the driver is trying to reset.. but since some sensor is not working, the 4ws system doesnt see that the wheel is at 45 degrees, and goes into " normal" code reporting / flashing..

My amateur 2 cents

Yeah, ive been throught all that. Go under your car, the sensor will be in the center of the rack, witg black plastic cover on it. Unplug the connector, remove the cover, unscrew the sensor and pull it out. But be careful dont damage the o ring. There should be some grease left inside the hole, no water, and sensors needle moving freely. Just hope its not the case, becouse it would indicate problem elsewhere, not in the sub sensor. As i said, if needle is stuck or barely moving, it will give the ecu one constant or barelly different voltage, which is not ok for the ecu and there you have the error.

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 9:03 am

Thanks man! Will try that.

I also remembered, what if I have the 4W locking pin (permanently) installed in the rear rack? I read some thread on the american forums where a guy had that problem.. He removed it and solved his 4ws light.

Also if it means anything, when i turn the ignition to ON (position before engine start) i always hear an "electrical motor moving" sound. It's hard to explain, but it is similar to an electrical window moving, but much quieter (sounds like something is moving into position). It's about a second or two long. Could it be the 4ws motor?

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:56 am

Anzezaf wrote:Thanks man! Will try that.

I also remembered, what if I have the 4W locking pin (permanently) installed in the rear rack? I read some thread on the american forums where a guy had that problem.. He removed it and solved his 4ws light.

Also if it means anything, when i turn the ignition to ON (position before engine start) i always hear an "electrical motor moving" sound. It's hard to explain, but it is similar to an electrical window moving, but much quieter (sounds like something is moving into position). It's about a second or two long. Could it be the 4ws motor?

its the fuel pump. Its normal. Locking pin left inside is idiotic.

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:06 am

no0ne wrote:Locking pin left inside is idiotic.

So is removing the 4WS and airbag warning light, but that didn't stop him from doing it

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:02 pm

So, I managed to resolder the ECU today, but it didn't help.
The steering front sub sensor will come next, but only after a week or two, so you will again hear from me then..