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Yet another 4WS thread
Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion
no0ne
- Anzezaf
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Post by Anzezaf » Tue Mar 06, 2018 9:08 pm
AeroNotix,
Thanks for taking the time and translating the polish 4WS manual!
But I am really puzzled now.. In every procedure you translated, it says that you shouldn't have any 4WS errors? And if you have them, go clear them from the computer?
And also, if I may ask, I don't understand the difference between your procedures in the manual, and the reset procedure in this thread :
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t102.html
Thanks for taking the time and translating the polish 4WS manual!
But I am really puzzled now.. In every procedure you translated, it says that you shouldn't have any 4WS errors? And if you have them, go clear them from the computer?
And also, if I may ask, I don't understand the difference between your procedures in the manual, and the reset procedure in this thread :
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... -t102.html
Anzezaf
AeroNotix
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- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Krakow, Poland. (Originally Blackpool, UK)
Post by AeroNotix » Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:57 pm
You need to try to first do a mechanical alignment (Very cheap to do) make sure you get it done to the specifications in the manual. If you want a custom alignment then you're on your own. I wouldn't bother if you want the 4ws working. Then you need to try to do the electronic 4ws alignment. I can help with that as well as no0ne's recent posts.
The reset procedure is garbage if you have a persistent error. You need to go through the full debugging procedure if you have any errors. I love this forum but people post the paperclip trick as a fix all. It fixes temporary errors and THAT'S IT. If something is broken it's broken.
If you can't do a full electronic alignment then it's time to break out the oscilloscope and start poking. It's not difficult but does require an oscilloscope. You can get 70% of the way there with just a voltage meter though.
The reset procedure is garbage if you have a persistent error. You need to go through the full debugging procedure if you have any errors. I love this forum but people post the paperclip trick as a fix all. It fixes temporary errors and THAT'S IT. If something is broken it's broken.
If you can't do a full electronic alignment then it's time to break out the oscilloscope and start poking. It's not difficult but does require an oscilloscope. You can get 70% of the way there with just a voltage meter though.
AeroNotix
Vtecmec
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Post by Anzezaf » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:53 am
From your mouth to god's earsVtecmec wrote: The 4ws system is solidly reliable and any issues are easily fixed.

Today i will short the connector, find the code and do the paperclip reset routine. Hopefully it will be more than a temporary fix and in any case, I will write here.
Anzezaf
- Anzezaf
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Post by Anzezaf » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:59 pm
Just my luck.. I cant do the paperclip reset..
I do everything by the book, but the 4WS light keeps flashing code 20 -> two long flashes about 1 second long, and then a 5 seconds pause before repeating code 20
Could it be that the 4WS ECU is acting up and needs resoldering?
I do everything by the book, but the 4WS light keeps flashing code 20 -> two long flashes about 1 second long, and then a 5 seconds pause before repeating code 20
Could it be that the 4WS ECU is acting up and needs resoldering?
Anzezaf
no0ne
Anzezaf
Post by no0ne » Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:45 pm
Its just a simple potenciometer ( dont know if exact word exists, but it just gives different voltage based on needle position). You can remove it and check if its needle is moving freely. If yes, but error 20 is still present after reseting error codes, try checking if voltage is coming to the ecu. If not, well theres your problem.
In my case needle was stuck, therefore no 4ws for me, but i found this only after changing main steering sensor and alot of cursing.
In my case needle was stuck, therefore no 4ws for me, but i found this only after changing main steering sensor and alot of cursing.

no0ne
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