NEED ADVICE/HELP

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:11 am

Order the gauge sender and coolant temp sensor there, just for piece of mind, but I may go get a compression tester anyway and check today.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 12:16 pm

Yeah, so that sounds like water pump, thermostat, blocked hose/coolant pipe, or a massive air lock to me.

What does the heater do? Does it blow hot? If so, how long does it take to blow hot?

Next suggestion would be to try it with the thermostat removed and see if you can see the coolant circulating into the rad.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 1:18 pm

Yea it blows out hot air no probs, ok so was out st it there agsin, gauge just stayed in the middle when I turned the car on at the start (for along time), then it jumped up one bar, but still noticed the bottom pipe was cold do left it run abit until the thermostat opened and hey presto bottom pipe went hot and the water started to circulate, temp dropped back down and stayed at the middle, took it for a small drive around the estate, parked it up and it shot up agsin,
So I bled from the screw with the engine off and still shot up again but I noticed the bottom rad was cold again.
I was messing about with the gauge sender sensor at the start when the car stayed in the middle do I'm hoping that the sensor is faulty and giving me the wrong signal.
Or I indeed could have a blockage or air trapped.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 1:22 pm

If the gauge goes fully up and i turn the car off and on again it drops back to the middle and takes awhile to go up again, surely even with the ignition on straight way it should still read high again, I'm leaning towards the sensor

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 5:19 pm

Gauge should never go over half way, regardless of whether the car has been switched off and then restarted, or not.

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:23 pm

DaveyBa8 wrote:If the gauge goes fully up and i turn the car off and on again it drops back to the middle and takes awhile to go up again, surely even with the ignition on straight way it should still read high again, I'm leaning towards the sensor

I had experienced this in the past. There is still some air in the system. I would empty all cooling system, lift front of the car, fill up rad, start the engine, as it take some fluid from the rad top it up, get to working temperature still checking level of fluid in the rad, put rad cap on and run the motor for few extra minutes, stop it, bleed, check for level, top up reservoir, and you should be fine.

I don't believe there is somethimg wrong with sensors.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:28 pm

I pulling of the head as we speak.

can't be anything else