Weird wobble

Post by **Vtecmec** » Tue May 17, 2016 2:40 pm

O/s and n/s inner shafts are different. If you find a source for the n/s, please let us know, I could not find a supplier last time I wanted some.

Post by **Donald** » Tue May 17, 2016 2:59 pm

I should have been more explicit 3 weeks ago

Post by **Merlin** » Tue May 17, 2016 3:02 pm

Vtecmec wrote:O/s and n/s inner shafts are different. If you find a source for the n/s, please let us know, I could not find a supplier last time I wanted some.

Rich from PAW says the shafts are the same but it is the outer CV that are different

damon · Post by **damon** » Tue May 17, 2016 3:05 pm

Iv got them spare shafts if your still interested Neil?

Post by **Vtecmec** » Thu May 19, 2016 10:25 am

Sorry,I meant cv joints , not shafts. The ns has a female slot for the half shaft, the os has a male to mate with the gearbox.

fithotblonde · Post by **fithotblonde** » Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:25 am

Ok so I thought I had fixed this problem with second hand shafts off Daman. But it's back its not wobbling as it was but knocking now. The garage it took it to thinks the bit of the shafts that go under the engine are wrong. What I have got is a h22a out of a 4 th gen and a m2b4 lsd gear box out of a 4th gen also. An have swoped out for my old f22 an gear box in to a jdm 5th gen that is a 4 stud hub. What I really really need to know is dose this combo work an if dose what shafts do I need. I really need this to work as its my only car and if I carnt fix it I will have to put old stuff back in wich I don't want to do. Thanks for all your help if any one can
Blonde

Post by **Merlin** » Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:31 am

fithotblonde wrote:The garage it took it to thinks the bit of the shafts that go under the engine are wrong.

The intermediate shaft either fits or it doesn't as it bolts directly into the block. If it bolts up fine it fits. It would be easily identifiable if they shaft you are using do not fit, ie they are either too long or too short.

TBH it sounds like the inner CV joints are away. Worn CV joints can manifest themselves in many ways, wobbling, knocking under acceleration, knocking on deceleration, knocking all the time!

A good way of finding if it is the CV joints is to jack the car up and slowly rotate the wheels back and forth to feel and hear and "grinding" etc..

fithotblonde · Post by **fithotblonde** » Wed Aug 31, 2016 10:57 am

Thanks Marlin I forgot to mention the bolt position were wrong on the barring bit so they used my old bit of that that did fit an then use the bit that comes off that to the wheel. I apologise for my descriptions it's a bit over my knowledge the shaft I got off Daman were off a 5th gen automatic if than makes a difference

fithotblonde · Post by **fithotblonde** » Wed Aug 31, 2016 11:15 am

Sore am men Damon my spelling really isn't the best

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:10 pm

So it sounds like for the long shaft (passenger side) they used the 4g half shaft and 5g drive shaft.
The 'cup' part of the inner tri-ax joint is on the half shaft. If they used the cup from the 4g shaft and didn't transfer the guts of the same tri-ax joint across (I.e. they used the guts from the 5g tri-ax joint) that could be causing your problem. The outer and inner parts from the same joint on different shafts will have worn differently and swapping one into the other is not a good idea (you should keep them as a matched set). The guts should have been transferred across from the 4g shaft to the 5g one.

If you think it's the inner joints, then I think you should really start afresh.
Half shaft from 4g (including the guts of the tri_ax joint from that 4g shaft) onto 5g driveshaft with 5g outer cv joint.
Although I think using a complete 5g manual shaft from the outset should fit fine, too, since the gearbox and block castings are the same???