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Greg-SiR's 1992 Jdm Sebring Silver Si Vtec..Sold

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JEBB4
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Post by JEBB4 » Mon May 16, 2016 4:03 am

When I do them I undo the centre drive shaft nut first (on my lude they were seized on the shaft), then the lower ball joint 19mm and the lower shock fork bolt through the lower arm, to crack the ball joint usually just smack the arm were the ball joint goes through or if that fails get a big chisel and loads of WD40....and if that fails get large prising bar (like 4ft long) and jack up on the hub get someone to pry the bar down on the lower arm and smack the bar with a big hammer to shock it..

Those ball joints are a pain sometimes I know but try soaking it with WD40 for a while...
If your not removing the shaft to do it id just tie the hub across to one side with some rope or something..
When yo finally get the dancer of a ball joint out :lol:
Jamie P 2013 wrote:i like tits :D
My BB6 build
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My BB2 build (yang)(WRITTEN OFF AND SOLD)
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18866

My BB4 build (yin) (SOLD TO DRAX)
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=12087&hilit=JEBB4+ ... ty#p203321

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Greg-SiR
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Re: Greg-SiR's 1992 Jdm Si Vtec

Post by Greg-SiR » Mon May 16, 2016 12:47 pm

Thanks JEBB4 for the advice,i went back at it again there for an hr and no joy.

Soaked up Wd40 substitute overnight.

There is alot to be said for having the right tools!

Was looking at one of these ball joint separators in SCA,looks a bit like something from The Metal Age :lol:

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Worth a shot?Closer than anything i have to hand to do it with.

Crime scene until tomorrow
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Going back to your dilemma on Prelude emptiness @JEBB4 still not considering personal importing your Black beauty over if you are going to hang down here for a long enough spell?

I'd be swaying towards that instead of forking out $$$$'s on a substitute thats still waiting to be found.

Easy enough to do once you have the coin to get it on board back home then usually 2 months to get here which gives enough time to get the rest for import duty tax and rego'd set aside,probably better than importing from japan too and cheaper somewhat,particularly with the work put in to your baby 8-)
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Merlin
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Post by Merlin » Mon May 16, 2016 12:58 pm

Was that just to remove the drive shaft?

The easy way to do it is undo the top arm from inside the engine bay and pull the knuckle forward whilst its on full lock. The shaft comes out and no need to split ball joints etc.. ;)
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BA8......... BB4......... BB8.........The JDM Muscle Bus

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Re: Greg-SiR's 1992 Jdm Si Vtec

Post by Greg-SiR » Mon May 16, 2016 1:12 pm

Merlin wrote:Was that just to remove the drive shaft?

The easy way to do it is undo the top arm from inside the engine bay and pull the knuckle forward whilst its on full lock. The shaft comes out and no need to split ball joints etc.. ;)
Your kidding me!

I do remember seeing this a while back actually,holy s*#t.

Yes just to change the outer boot which is in 3 pieces.

Will have to wait till the morning to get in there for a go,you helped me finish up on a positive thought Merlin :-P
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Post by Merlin » Tue May 17, 2016 9:07 am

You have split the balljoints so just continue as you are.

For future reference, undo the shock fork from the bottom of the shock (14mm) and the bottom arm (17mm) and remove the fork, undo the two bolts holding the upper arm from inside the engine bay (17mm) and pull the top arm down so the threads of the bolts no longer hold the arm in place. Put the steering on full lock and pull the knuckle forward, tap the end of the CV joint though the knuckle. It can take a bit of wiggling but it does come out. So much quicker and easier than splitting the bottom ball joint and track rod end.
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Post by JEBB4 » Tue May 17, 2016 10:25 am

Greg-SiR wrote: Going back to your dilemma on Prelude emptiness @JEBB4 still not considering personal importing your Black beauty over if you are going to hang down here for a long enough spell?

I'd be swaying towards that instead of forking out $$$$'s on a substitute thats still waiting to be found.

Easy enough to do once you have the coin to get it on board back home then usually 2 months to get here which gives enough time to get the rest for import duty tax and rego'd set aside,probably better than importing from japan too and cheaper somewhat,particularly with the work put in to your baby 8-)
yeah i have thought about it but its just alot of money at the moment, however you have made me think about not selling it and maybe shipping it when the money situation suits..... thing is its been almost stripped and back standard now :roll:
Jamie P 2013 wrote:i like tits :D
My BB6 build
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=54187

My BB2 build (yang)(WRITTEN OFF AND SOLD)
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=18866

My BB4 build (yin) (SOLD TO DRAX)
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=12087&hilit=JEBB4+ ... ty#p203321

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Greg-SiR
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Re: Greg-SiR's 1992 Jdm Si Vtec

Post by Greg-SiR » Tue May 24, 2016 12:24 pm

Some improvising with a cheapo safety cone cut up
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While i was in there a drain and refill with the good olde Amsoil,still 9 months or so now and i have yet to have another gear crunch in the bb4,highly recommended.

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PITA rating for the Cv boot change(obviously never done one before) 7/10 :x
Can't wait until the next time :guns:

Closer to the test now just some tidying and hopefully no more greased up hands for a while!
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Post by simonc » Tue May 31, 2016 3:04 am

@Greg-SiR, just wanted to say thanks for the notes you put up a while ago about fitting the new dials. We did it yesterday, following your instructions to a tee, and I'm pleased to say, my dash is now fully functioning and lit up like a Prelude Christmas tree.
Thanks buddy, much appreciated ;)
'Mr Bridger, will drive them, into the sea...'

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Re: Greg-SiR's 1992 Jdm Si Vtec

Post by Greg-SiR » Tue May 31, 2016 10:43 am

Great to hear Simon,nice little fix that brings it all back to life again and it will be easier now the second time too if needed (hopefully not!) ;)
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Post by simonc » Tue May 31, 2016 11:14 am

I'd almost gotten used to not having the gauges operating, which was worrying. Anyway, like you say, all's well so I'm really chuffed. ;)
'Mr Bridger, will drive them, into the sea...'

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