The 'look at what I did today' thread

damon · Post by **damon** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:58 pm

Face drokk sucks.

'92 Si VTEC · Post by **jjmartin349571** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:06 pm

*post moved to the right place*

The MX5 passed its MOT today. If it's lucky I'll clean the bird jobby off of it at the weekend. For now though it'll have to make do with being photographed on the beach in drab weather:

It's had 4 new shocks to pass the test, and it drives like a different car now. Laura has promptly nabbed it as she left for the gym this eve, I have a feeling I'm not going to get to drive this car much...

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:21 pm

whats giving you that impression

'92 Si VTEC · Post by **jjmartin349571** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 11:35 pm

More time spent at the barn today

Firstly removed the horrible seats out the MX5:

Crap lighting in the photos and it doesn't show up the filth on those seats, or the wear and crap repairs.

Then I got about fitting in the replacements:

Much better looking imo

Comfier too, and the added height of the seat adds a pleasant false sense of security (I'm 6' and the head rest not reaching my head height made me constantly aware of the fact that if the car rolled my head would have a one way ticket into the tarmac

).

No modification was needed to fit the seats even though they came from a later car - the runners used identical mounting points.

I even found £3 under the driver's seat, which paid for the cheese burgers at lunch time

Meanwhile my Dad was at the barn with me, as his latest truck needed new front pads & discs:

Yep, they appear to be toast

Not good.

New stuff in place:

It was a bit of a learning curve replacing the discs on this, as you have to remove the free-wheeling hubs in order to get the discs off. This involves removing the wheel bearing which is a bit of a pain in the arse. We got it done though, with a bit of logical thinking and a trip to Halfords for an impact driver (the stress relieving kind that you mash with a hammer).

@thebusofwoe, one question that you might be able to answer for me - how important is it to torque the 'nut' in the pic below:

My dad was happy enough returning them to the position they came from by eye using the markings, but according to the interwebs you need a special tool, and have to do it up once, back it off, then do it up again

Should I send him off to the mechanic to get that done properly? It has a locking washer on top, and we took a fairly vigorous test drive around the yard during which the wheels didn't fall off, but it's in the back of my mind...

All in all though it was pretty constructive for a Sunday, especially as I have an exam in the morning

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 11:56 pm

It does indeed involve a sequence. BUT, if you take that lot apart you should always re pack both bearings with grease and replace the carrier seal (rear bearing seal). We use a handy bearing packer for this job and use an american grease called red & tacky. Made by lucas oils iirc. If you put bearings back in without re packing them then you run the high risk of running them dry, which will cause them to spin the inner races and wear the hub spindle out

You will need a small torque wrench (up to 60nm) and a tool called a pull scale. Its simple to do but gets a bit of getting used to. So after its all back together with new grease and seals you need to set the pre load on the bearing. There is a special tool for that big nut that you will need in order to torque it properly. First step, 30nm. Spin the disc then check again. Next step, loosen the nut. Then tighten it hand tight. Now hook the pull scale on a stud and pull it. You need to get 2kg of break away force. So the scale reads 2kg before the disc starts to move. Adjust the big nut untill you get this. Pull the pull scale in a liner motion and not up or down. When you get 2kg then time to put the lock ring on. You can make small adjustments to make it line up or spin it 180 degrees to change the position. Get it all back together not forgetting the circlip and spacers shims. The allen bolts are 60nm.

Thats the book way of doing it. Ive done hundreds of these like that now

and in my opinion it needs to be done or it will simply drokk the bearings up. But its up to you.

Oh and by the way, you asked for it

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 11:58 pm

Oh and the average back street wont know how to do that unless they know troopers. They will usually just do it up until there is not play. Which is fine for a few hundred miles until the grease gets pushed out.

'92 Si VTEC · Post by **jjmartin349571** » Mon Mar 14, 2016 12:40 am

I'll text my dad

cheers mate, guess we'll have to invest in some more tools. Is the tool for the nut freely available, or is it a dealer only jobby?

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Mon Mar 14, 2016 1:08 am

Will find out for you tomorrow bud.

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Mon Mar 14, 2016 8:52 am

I made a new campfire burner/bbq yesterday.

I saw them on ebay for £60 but it was just two wheels welded together with a hole cut out, no feet, no door, nothing. I decided I could do better for less and went for it. Never welded anything in my life so it was a first attempt.

Gives off loadsa heat and the fire jet effect at night is wicked. Quite pleased. Welding is fun