It finally happened. i think i snapped my cambelt.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:43 am

It was quite a while ago that I read that part of the service manual, hence why I said iirc above

I've also read up on the job in Chilton, so it could be either place where I've read that previously...

Post by **Drax** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:52 am

can't see anything other than simple removal of the tensioner, only when putting it back on here does it go into detail

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 10:18 am

well done posting that up.

So, yeah tool needed before refitting, not removal - i got that back to front, but that's the process I was thinking of.
So in detail (which I couldn't remember) if the guy hadn't done all/some of the shenanigans with: correctly wound it back/ensured the oil didn't run out/replaced the bolt seal/then hadn't used the tool before refitting... That's what I'm saying is by far the most likely cause of it failing within 3 days, rather than the tensioner itself.

(nb: I have read some people say they've just cable tied the tensioner back, instead of using the tool and that has worked for them as an alternative?)

Post by **Drax** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:08 am

wurlycorner wrote: (nb: I have read some people say they've just cable tied the tensioner back, instead of using the tool and that has worked for them as an alternative?)

yep, a strong cable tie will also do the trick, as shown on some youtube guides

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:17 am

I am really losing my enthusiam for trying to tackle this by myself....

Anyone local wanna come help me out with it?

Also does anyone have any recommendations on a belt kit to get?

Post by **Drax** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:36 am

Bludge wrote:I am really losing my enthusiam for trying to tackle this by myself....

Anyone local wanna come help me out with it?

Also does anyone have any recommendations on a belt kit to get?

if you have plenty of time then its not that bad a job at all

just need to make a note of where everything came from when you put it back together.

just get a new gates belt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gates-Cambelt ... 51d2d01c8b and a water pump from your local motor factors or Euro car parts etc.

biggest pita will be getting the crank pulley off, we used an anti locking spray and a big ass breaker bar on a big good quality socket extension from frauds to get the clearance out of the wheel arch. you need to lock the pulley in place though, you can lock the cam shafts using two small drill bits (see location in pic below) in the cam shafts to stop it all moving before the cam belt is off and once the cams are at TDC

Post by **Vtecmec** » Tue Dec 01, 2015 12:54 pm

I just wedge a bar in the cam wheels to lock the cams, but there is no need to undo those anyway when doing the belt.......

+1 on the gates belts.

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Wed Dec 02, 2015 9:46 pm

So do i need a special tool to lock the crank pulley? was gonna try my impact wrench on it first, still wise to lock it even if the IW works?

Post by **Vtecmec** » Wed Dec 02, 2015 10:04 pm

If the impact works, then you're good to go, otherwise you'll need the locking tool.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAST-FEW-LEFT ... SwyQtVkU78

Post by **Drax** » Thu Dec 03, 2015 8:46 am

if you do what I showed in the last post here, you don't need the crank locking tool, just 2x small drill bits

- just remember to do this while the cambelt is still attached and the tensioner still on.