Making shorter anti roll bar drop links. Any downsides?

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 2:20 pm

fefelarue wrote:the length makes no difference?

The length of the drop link is the distance between the anti roll bar and where it attaches onto the knuckle. Since the position of the knuckle is not movable, if you use a shorter drop link this will alter the roll bar. Either the roll bar will have to bend to attach to the shorter drop link or the bar will have to rotate in order to attach. A rotated roll bar may not fit due to its specific shape.

Why cant you make a new drop link that is the same length as the original one? Cant you use threaded rod?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:32 pm

Merlin wrote:or the bar will have to rotate in order to attach. A rotated roll bar may not fit due to its specific shape.

Yep, that was exactly what I meant by it maybe not having enough clearance for suspension travel when going over bumps etc. if you fitted shorter drop links.

The rollbar needs to rotate in order to absorb bumps - and by shortening the drop links, you will have used up the space that it would otherwise have used when rotating to absorb a bump.

There is quite a lot of slack for the rollbar to rotate in either direction, with the standard length drop links.

If you were to shorten the drop links unequally (i.e. one side shorter than the other) you would pre-stress the bar in one direction. That would mean it would stiffen the car for rolling in one direction, but soften it for rolling in the other. You would also end up with the car sitting wonky when parked up

fefelarue · Post by **fefelarue** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:44 pm

Merlin wrote:Why cant you make a new drop link that is the same length as the original one? Cant you use threaded rod?

Just because I'm doing it without welding, and there's not enough room at one end for a nut, there's just about room for a bolt head

Thanks for all the help folks!

fefelarue · Post by **fefelarue** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:45 pm

wurlycorner wrote:If you were to shorten the drop links unequally (i.e. one side shorter than the other) you would pre-stress the bar in one direction. That would mean it would stiffen the car for rolling in one direction, but soften it for rolling in the other. You would also end up with the car sitting wonky when parked up

Wait. Are you saying If I swapped the droplinks for actuators I could make DIY hydraulics?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:14 pm

Not hydraulic lifting and the dancing stuff you see (you wouldn't get enough lift/drop on each corner) but in essence for perfect roll control, yes - the roll elimination on my xantia activa is because there is a double acting computer controlled hydraulic ram in place of a drop link on one end of the front and rear arb.

fefelarue · Post by **fefelarue** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 7:05 pm

Saved myself £110

Needs longer bolts for the rears though..

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:40 pm

Inventive...

The thread might eat the inside of the bushes though? (or are they sleeved and we just can't see that

)

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 8:49 pm

looks good buddy

fefelarue · Post by **fefelarue** » Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:57 am

No they're not sleeved. I'm hoping they will hold up but time will tell.

Post by **Merlin** » Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:01 am

I think if you do them up nice and tight you shouldn't have a problem. There is always the debate on how tight you should do up these. I always do them up as tight as I can get them, to the point where they are beginning to deform the bushes a little.