Folding mirrors/central locking - How to!

alinton · Post by **alinton** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:14 am

A phrase in someone's spec piqued my interest:

"Folding mirrors wired into central locking"

Anyone any details how to do this?

The folding mirror button only has +ve when ign is on, whereas the c/l works when ign and aux are off - so I'd be interested to know how linking the two is accomplished.

Post by **Pushki** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 1:14 am

Copied from Ye Olde PreludeUK site. Courtesy of Stan.

The pictures seem to be lost in space......

Stan wrote:Folding Mirrors connected to Alarm / Central Locking

Another useful link (thanks to Shadowcat) - http://preludeuk.forumup.com/viewtopic. ... =preludeuk

I know that this is essentially copying the info (and pics) from the Honda Revolutions thread, but I thought I'd share it here since I did this today in about 15 minutes and it worked first time no worries, and it's a simpler write up.

Now if you have the folding mirror button on your doorcard insert this'll be a doddle, if not then follow the second write up at the bottom.

If you have the mirror switch in your doorcard

For this job you will need: a screwdriver, 2 bits of wire (standard gauge), 2 resistors (1N4001), 4 scotchlocks, and some insulation tape.

Firstly, you need to remove the doorcard. It helps if you put your window down first. There are 4 screws to remove first of all: 1 in the pocket, 1 behind the door handle, 1 just below the mirror backing plate (remove the backing plate as well), and 1 to the bottom right of the doorcard

Then you need to pull the door lock/window switch assembly out. Start by the handle and just pull. Lifting the handle helps this along. There are 2 wiring connectors hooked up to the back of these you need to undo to fully remove it.

Now pop the bottom of the card off (just pull!) and then lift the doorcard up. Remember that you now can remove the wiring connector for the mirror switch, and courtesy light if you have it.

Once the doorcard is off, you can start the wiring. Find the wiring that goes to the locking. There should be a wiring connector fixed to the door that disappears behind the inner panel. This controls the central locking. There should be 2 wires next to each other, a white one with a red tracer, and a yellow one with a red tracer. These are the lock and unlock wires.

You need to connect 2 wires up to these, scotchlocking them is the easiest way.

Now you need to put the 2 resistors in each wire. Here is a diagram (shamefully stolen!) that shows how to connect these. You can solder them or just wrap a bit of the wire around the resistor and then insulate it with tape:

Now you should have 2 bits of wire with resistors in them, connected to the 2 central locking wires.

You now need to scotchlock these 2 wires to the main fold/unfold wire on the mirror wiring connector. There is only 1 wire so you can't go wrong! This wire on my mirror harness was blue with a yellow tracer, but I've heard it can be blue with a white tracer. Whatever one it is, it'll be the one on the right of the connector as you look at it. This pic is from the console switch but it's the same.

Now once these 2 wires are scotchlocked on the wire, you're done! Test the mirrors by locking your car with your alarm, and they should fold in. Now just tidy up the wires and put the panel back on. Job done.

If you have the mirror switch on the centre console

This is slightly easier since you don't need your door card off, but you need to run the 2 wires under your centre console. Follow most of the instructions as about for the wiring.

Firstly remove the dash panel under your steering wheel. Just above the bonnet release catch is the central locking wires. You should be able to see the white wire with red tracer and yellow wire with red tracer. You need to connect the 2 wires up to these as aforementioned, see picture:

Now wire the resistors in line with them, and then run them under your centre console till you reach your mirror switch wiring loom. Connect both these wires up the the blue wire with yellow tracer as above, and then you're done!

If anyone has anything to add to this feel free to!

Oh, I also have about 96 resistors left after I had to buy 100 on eBay to use for this. If anyone wants me to send them some resistors then PM me and i'll stick 6 in the post to you (to make sure you don't mess anything up!)

Also...Courtesy of Shadowcat.

Shadowcat wrote:I hope prelude_stan doesn't mind but I decided to take his concept a little further and share my thoughts since I ran into an issue when I was about to perform this little mod.

The issue is with some alarm systems that like to lock themselves when the engine has started.. obviously this wouldn't be great as you would then have the wing mirrors folding back in again. Pretty irritating. For those of you that don't care about that or that don't have an alarm which locks after engine start... please see prelude_stans original guide here:

http://preludeuk.forumup.com/viewtopic. ... =preludeuk

For those of you that do care... you are in luck. You will want to follow prelude_stans guide above until you get to the part of actually connecting up wires. Then please refer to this.

Have a picture:

Now I know my drawing skillz are teh 1337 so any people complaining will be taken out and shot.

Let me explain, this is a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) relay.
You can buy them here: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... &doy=12m12

It has a common pin (30). When no voltage is applied, pin 30 is directly connected to pin 87a. When a voltage is applied across the coil, pin 30 then becomes directly connected to pin 87 and the connection with 87a is broken.

This is how it will work in a real world situation:

1) You unlock your car, electrical impulse from unlock goes through 30, through 87a and onto your folding mirror switch wire (described in prelude_stans post). Your mirrors unfold.

2) You get in the car and turn the key, the IGNITION wire goes live and the coil is activated, the connection 30-87a is broken and instead goes 30-87. There is nothing connected to pin 87 and it can be seen as infinite resistance.

3) After 15 seconds, your alarm sends a pulse to lock the doors. The doors lock, 87a is not connected to anything, your folding mirrors stay where they are.

4) You finish driving to wherever you please, get out the car and lock it. Ignition is off, the coil is off, 30 is connected to 87a, the lock pulse travels to the wing mirror button. As your doors lock your mirrors fold in.

The diode in-between pins 86 & 85 is VERY important. It prevents current flowing in the opposite direction when power is turned off. Were it not there, damage could potentially be caused to audio equipment (if you are taking IGN from your head unit). Better to be safe than sorry

I will shortly post pics of the 'real world' setup and install to complete this guide

I haven't read these guides myself.
Hopefully the information within will point you in the right direction.

alinton · Post by **alinton** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:57 am

Thanks for that, im not sure how that's going to work though, why would you join the central locking wires together via resistors?

And what value resistors?

I'd guess he's talking about diodes, so that a pulse is supplied to the mirror circuit via the diode whether the lock or unlock pulse is sent.

I still don't see how it'd work though, as the mirror control doesn't have any supply when the ign is off!

I guess some experimentation is in order.

Confused · Post by **Confused** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:30 am

Don't question it, just follow the damn instructions - (but, yes, it should be diodes, not resistors) - it works.

alinton · Post by **alinton** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:32 am

But but but...

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:50 am

The folding mirrors circuit itself does have a supply when the ignition is off, it's just the control switch that doesn't.
This is why if you start the mirror fold with the ignition on, but switch the ignition off before they have finished folding, they carry on folding until they have finished.

Stan hasn't mentioned which way round you need to connect the diodes, but I would assume they need to conduct from the central locking to the mirrors, but block from the mirrors to the central locking. So the line marking on the diode needs to be at the mirror end.

Confused · Post by **Confused** » Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:29 pm

wurlycorner wrote:Stan hasn't mentioned which way round you need to connect the diodes, but I would assume they need to conduct from the central locking to the mirrors, but block from the mirrors to the central locking. So the line marking on the diode needs to be at the mirror end.

Yes, that is correct.

alinton · Post by **alinton** » Sat Sep 05, 2015 2:01 pm

I've just tested all this, and it doesn't work as I thought it would, but it does work.

Because the central locking switch sends a negative-going pulse to the power door control unit, and the mirror button sends a positive-going pulse to the mirror control unit, you can't connect these together via diodes and have it work (if you didn't have the diodes you'd be connecting the lock and the unlock wires together and the solenoid wouldn't do anything!)

Putting the diodes with the cathode (line) towards the mirror would allow a positive-going pulse through alright, so in fact the connection is made not to the CL switch, but to the CL solenoid supply, which is the wht/red and yel/red wires as stated.

So despite my cynicism, I now see how it works, and will be embarking upon it today, although I will need to add the extra relay to disconnect the switch pulse when the IGN is on, so that my alarm doesn't fold the mirrors when it locks the doors when I drive off.

alinton · Post by **alinton** » Sat Sep 05, 2015 6:20 pm

...except I can't find the two solenoid wires, whi/red and yel/red. Where he says they are is a big loom with loads of wires going to a long connector. There are wires those colours, but they aren't the CL ones, according to my power probe.

They don't go +ve when the locks fire.

Humph.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:17 am

alinton wrote:...except I can't find the two solenoid wires, whi/red and yel/red. Where he says they are is a big loom with loads of wires going to a long connector.

From memory, the central locking connector is in their own plug, on the inside skin of the door, towards the back of the door.

Does yours have the jdm oem remote IR locking?