4ws questions

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:16 pm

MaccaIRL wrote:
indigolemon wrote:You have to change the rear subframe man, a pin wouldn't work for anything other than an accurate alignment.
That sounds like a royal pain in the hole lol

nope its easy and very straightforward

YouTube · Post by **Sailor** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:29 pm

indigolemon wrote:Surprised no-one has mentioned it yet, but ...

If you have 4WS (which the rear rack implies you do) and it's not working for whatever reason, your rear wheels are NOT locked straight. I repeat, the only thing holding your wheels straight at the back are two rather beefy springs, and cornering sharply or at speeds over 50mph will cause the rears to move - and not in a safe predictable way. Official Honda guidelines suggest keeping the car below 50mph and getting the 4WS checked ASAP if the light is on, and I really do think someone has removed the bulb, and the light is in fact on.

Just as an aside, I believe that there are two basic failure conditions.
One is where the rack receives no instructions and no current at all, which is when the springs are all that's keeping you straight (ish).
The other is when the system fails to tell the rack to move left or right, in which case it remains energised in the straight-ahead position, thus backing up the springs.

Of course, the system should be fixed in both cases.

Bludge · Post by **Bludge** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:53 pm

MaccaIRL wrote:
indigolemon wrote:You have to change the rear subframe man, a pin wouldn't work for anything other than an accurate alignment.
That sounds like a royal pain in the hole lol

I managed it on my 4th when i gave up on ever fixing my 4ws. it was surprisingly easy. i do miss 4ws though.

First things first though is check the dash light bulb, at least then you will have some idea of whats going on.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:56 pm

mercutio wrote: nope its easy and very straightforward

Except that all your rear arm bolts will be corroded solid and a massive pain to undo...

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:00 pm

wurlycorner wrote:
mercutio wrote: nope its easy and very straightforward
Except that all your rear arm bolts will be corroded solid and a massive pain to undo...

Minor thread-jack, slightly related: I got some Plusgas spray (because I don't have a blowtorch for releasing corroded bolts) and its great!

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:27 pm

Plus gas is excellent. It didn't touch the 2ws subframe I've been stripping though

MaccaIRL · Post by **MaccaIRL** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:07 pm

Thanks for all the help gents
Get to work on it all on Saturday but first things first is brakes and exhaust to keep me legal lol

bb1boy · Post by **bb1boy** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:22 pm

wurlycorner wrote:Plus gas is excellent. It didn't touch the 2ws subframe I've been stripping though

Oh, if Plusgas wouldn't touch it, I'd have to call that 'a job for someone else'

Post by **Doggo** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:33 pm

MaccaIRL wrote:
How would one convert to 2ws?

Don't do it, man. That's like cutting your tackle off because you've got the wrong name tattood on there.

Sure it might be a little hassle to fix, but it's reliable, and we're talking about righting a fundamental wrong of automotive design here.

Take a working 4WS through the twistiest tarmac you know, and you'll know. Remember that in the 80's a 4WS third beat everything... (Porsche, Ferrari, EVERYTHING)... down a globally respected car magazine's slalom for the year. And know that converting a 4WS Prelude to 2WS to try and improve reliability is like sticking a diesel in a McLaren to be more reliable. What you have here is in the first few of a line. A triumph of logic and insight and engineering over dogma.

Trust your fears, your wallet, and those who never tried it or had the talent to tell the difference.

Or take your balls in your hand and drive hard through the prejudice to a new truth you can measure and feel.

MaccaIRL · Post by **MaccaIRL** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:58 am

Doggo wrote:
MaccaIRL wrote:
How would one convert to 2ws?
Don't do it, man. That's like cutting your tackle off because you've got the wrong name tattood on there.

Sure it might be a little hassle to fix, but it's reliable, and we're talking about righting a fundamental wrong of automotive design here.

Take a working 4WS through the twistiest tarmac you know, and you'll know. Remember that in the 80's a 4WS third beat everything... (Porsche, Ferrari, EVERYTHING)... down a globally respected car magazine's slalom for the year. And know that converting a 4WS Prelude to 2WS to try and improve reliability is like sticking a diesel in a McLaren to be more reliable. What you have here is in the first few of a line. A triumph of logic and insight and engineering over dogma.

Trust your fears, your wallet, and those who never tried it or had the talent to tell the difference.

Or take your balls in your hand and drive hard through the prejudice to a new truth you can measure and feel.

Well that was ridiculously inspiring for 7am haha

Lude Generation

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