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Idling
Engine/Gearbox questions and discussion
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Merlin
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Merlin
- mercutio
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Post by mercutio » Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:54 pm
if the iacv never sees heat from the cooling system and the fitv works as normal they will be fighting each other wont they??
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Post by Merlin » Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:00 pm
The FITV is not electrical and simply works off a thermowax plunger that expands and contracts with the heat of the coolant. Once up to temp the FITV should shut off and no longer be in operation.
The IACV is electrical and when the electrical connector is removed idle falls dramatically as there is no assistance from the IACV. If there is no coolant reaching the IACV it may think that the coolant is cold and tells the ECU to increase revs. The ECU senses that the engine is idling high and cuts the injectors, and the cycle of bouncing begins.
The IACV is electrical and when the electrical connector is removed idle falls dramatically as there is no assistance from the IACV. If there is no coolant reaching the IACV it may think that the coolant is cold and tells the ECU to increase revs. The ECU senses that the engine is idling high and cuts the injectors, and the cycle of bouncing begins.
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Post by Merlin » Wed Apr 15, 2015 11:52 am
Another thing, you can test to see if either the FITV or IACV is not working properly or you have a vacuum leak. Get the engine up to temp and remove the intake to get to the throttle body. There are two holes, the lower hole is the FITV, when the engine is warm and you block the FITV hole with your finger nothing should happen. If revs fall while blocking this hole the FITV needs tightened. Blocking the top hole should greatly reduce revs and should try and stall out the engine. If revs do not fall significantly you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
[youtube]wwm0-tlsNHk[/youtube]
If, like above, blocking the holes does what it should then you have an IACV/IACV control problem.
[youtube]wwm0-tlsNHk[/youtube]
If, like above, blocking the holes does what it should then you have an IACV/IACV control problem.
Merlin
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