Blue Beauty from Malaysia

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:43 am

Washer pump;
Open the bonnet and pull the washer hose off one of the nozzles from underneath (give it a twist first to break the temporary bonding that will have occurred, then a strong pull back on the hose).
Leave the hose dangling and operate the washer. Does anything come out? Is it clean, or lumpy? If lumpy you have a clogged up washer system, pull off the hose from the other nozzle then run the pump to empty the system,, top up the bottle again with warm water and keep running it through till it runs clear. If it's really bad, you might need to strip the bottle out for a clean, but hopefully that can be avoided.
If nothing comes out, stick your head by the passenger side of the front bumper, by the wheel and get someone to operate the wash switch can you hear the pump run? If not, then check fuses for any missing/blown and if they're ok you'll need to remove the passenger side arch liner (or the front bumper) to access the bottle and pump. Pull the connector off the pump, get someone to operate the switch and check for voltage on one pin of the connector and a good ground on the other. If you have voltage, the pump is knackered. If you have no voltage then either the switch is knackered or there's a break in the wire somewhere.

Post by **simonc** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:47 am

Hi Iain, muchos gracias. At the office right now but this sounds like the sort of thing I could have a go at. Ta so much.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:53 am

No problem. If you get as far as uncovering the washer bottle, you'll see there are 2 pumps. One is for the rear, one is for the front. I forget which is which, but if the back one works, get someone to operate that while you're down there and you'll know which one is which

Post by **simonc** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:04 am

Copy that.

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:58 pm

1:As for brakes I'm using black diamonds bought of ebay as a set (discs+pads). Can't say even one bad word about them. Also good think is to check all calipers (remove pistons-check for wear and replace seals) and if money let you then use braided hoses (goodridge) and quality fluid (RBF600).

2: Engine idle.

3: Engine mounts (and now a horrible clunk and shocking vibrations when I engage reverse). Well sounds a bit like you have to change your mechanc. If new mounts are OEM ones then all this shouldn't happend. Check them visualy. And also compare the one they say it won't fit. Why you paid for it instead of DIY? It's simple job

4: Orange warning light: this sounds like it's sorted

5: Engine warning light. You probably heard this already but do self diagnosis. Instruction can be found on forum (wiki I think). You also should check connectors. And as a last swap your ECU for known good to see what will happend

7: Air-con whistle. You know what to do

8: Windscreen washers not working. Wurly already said everything about this

9: Shock knock! Passenger side rear. If your shocks are OEM ones then this knock may be comming from two rubber bushings hiden in top mount. Check for wear and replace them or cheap option put some washers to make them fit tighter. Good for start to sort it. Also you can invest in full set of coilovers. This helped on my car

Good luck and keep it on the road!

Post by **simonc** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:38 am

All of this much appreciated gentlemen, thank you.
I'll be speaking to the last garage I went to about the mounts and will be insisting they do them again. That should be a laugh but I'm going to try.
I'll also ask them to look at the Greddy box and see if it's that that is causing the Christmas tree lights. They will also be asked to fix the idle (again).
I just hope it works guys - I can't begin to tell you how recalcitrant (posh word for lazy buggers) your average Malaysian mechanic is.
Wish me luck. Thanks again - Simon.
Oh, by the way. Anyone any thoughts on the brake light?

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:23 pm

check the handbrake switch for the brake light

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:23 am

Also brake fluid level and connectors for the wires going to reservoir

Post by **simonc** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:55 am

OK chaps - will do.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 8:59 am

Just thinking a bit more...
If/when you check for voltage at the washer pump, if you don't have a multimeter, you could just swap the plugs between the 2 pumps for test purposes, that way the rear switch will then be driving the front pump. Since you say the rear wash works fine, if nothing happens when you test it after swapping the plugs, then you know it's the front pump that's shagged. If it works, then you know the problem is with either the feed or the ground on the other plug.

Lude Generation

Blue Beauty from Malaysia

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