ABS Problem

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 5:03 pm

firstly there is only one ak47 and its a Chinese one at that

secondly "locate your wheel sensor it will be located near the wheel" reeeeeeeaaaly

Post by **semicolin** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:40 pm

Still having issues with this, failed it's MOT

i've plugged in the new sensor but not fitted it yet. ABS light stays on even after reset. Got fault code 11.

Any ideas?

Post by **Vtecmec** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:44 pm

semicolin wrote:i've plugged in the new sensor but not fitted it yet

Post by **semicolin** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:48 pm

I've plugged it in, IIRC this should be enough to clear the fault while stationary. I don't want to be replacing the sensor if the sensor isn't the problem.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:50 pm

There are some good diagnostic flow charts in the manual (well in the 4th gen one anyway), have you had a look at those?

Post by **semicolin** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:53 pm

I haven't looked to be honest, will i find this online?

Post by **Vtecmec** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:54 pm

It's here on the site, in the Wiki section.

Post by **semicolin** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 2:58 pm

cheers

Post by **semicolin** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:57 pm

Can't make any sense of the manual, looks like i'll just be booking it into the garage

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:58 pm

EDIT: just noticed this is a 5g, so temporarily hiding my reply based on 4g knowledge till I've checked if it's still relevant!

Phew - glad I spotted that, otherwise I'd have looked a right plum, wouldn't I!

You mean I've given the game away anyway?

Anyway...
Your 'new' sensor might also be knackered, or you might have damaged it whilst connecting it up, or it might be the wiring between the ECU and the plug, rather than the wiring to the sensor itself.
IMO a garage will be absolutely no drokking use in diagnosing an ABS fault on a lude.
If they can't fault a sensor by continuity testing them individually then they'll tell you "it's the pump" and quote you £400 + labour for changing that. But you might get lucky and I might be wrong there...

In short, what you need to do is unplug your Front Right sensor from the connector on the body (inner wing, assuming it's the same as the 4g). Then take a multimeter, put it on continuity or resistance check and put it across the plug for your existing sensor.
If you have continuity and somewhere between 400Ohm-2kOhm resistance, then your sensor is probably fine. If you have no continuity and your resistance is outside that range, then it's knackered.
Do a final check on the sensor by doing a continuity check between each pin on the plug to vehicle earth - you shouldn't get any continuity. If you do, the sensor is knackered. If not, the sensor is definitely ok and you need to move on to checking the wire that runs from the ECU to the sensor plug.
Leave the ABS sensor unplugged. Unplug the plug at the ABS ECU. You then need to check you have continuity from pins 9 and 8 on the ECU plug, to the corresponding pin at the sensor plug end (basically ECU pin 9 should have continuity to one of the sensor plug pins but not the other and vice-versa for ECU pin 8 ).
Check you don't have continuity across ECU pin 8 to ECU pin 9 and check you have no continuity from ECU pin 8 to vehicle earth, or ECU pin 9 to vehicle earth.
That will tell you if the wiring from ECU to sensor is ok.