Anyone got a M10x1.0mm thread repair kit...?

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:29 pm

All in saying is that you would need it to be as clean as poss. Any most tiny bit of swarf could damage the seal, lock the piston, or cause corrosion. The tolerances are very small so what ever route you take, just be clean

Post by **SPYDOR** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:33 pm

Just read that the first 1-2mm of tapping tends to determine the angle it takes as it can't really by changed part way through; I'm bad enough at trying to drill in a straight line!

106pete · Post by **106pete** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:41 pm

If you've never tapped a hole before, this isn't something to start on lol

Post by **SPYDOR** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:51 pm

I'm thinking the same thing. Problem is I really need it done in the next 3-4 days. Could see if there are any garages around that are good at this, or maybe give Performance Autoworks a call.

Failing that I will have to try and test drilling and tapping a few holes in some scrap metal. My brother's Corsa is sitting on the drive...

Cutz · Post by **Cutz** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:57 pm

as 106pete says if you've never done this before don't even bother.

it's not difficult to install helicoils...i recently heli-coiled a pair of 4-pot brembo calipers for a mate as all the lug threads were completely screwed.

me and the old man did it on a a bench drill to keep it absolutely perfect and managed to get the coils installed spot on.

however, upon installing the caliper and going through the bleeding sequence, one of the nipples decided it no longer needed to be attached to the caliper and snapped off in a cloud of swearing, cursing and general shouting.

a bleed nipple is a lot tougher as it has a conical base the nipple presses down onto and during very careful drilling we nicked the cone at the bottom meaning no matter what we did it continued to leak. we ended up sending it to a pro company who do it on a jig & CNC machine to precisely remove enough material and size it up....cost £60 i think.

as for removing the piston and seals they are a piece of cake...if you have a little air compressor that is more than enough pressure to blow the piston out and then the seals are a doddle.

if you don't have an air compressor....you need one

Post by **SPYDOR** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 11:06 pm

Cheers, bit of a horror story but as you say, easily done even with far more experience and equipment.

Will probably call around some places on Monday morning, then go down the 7/16" tap and banjo if I can't get anywhere to do it quickly, as I don't think the marginally bigger tap should cause too many problems, needing no drilling, which is what I'm keen to avoid doing myself!

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 12:23 am

If you go up a size in banjo bolt, don't forget you'll need to change your brake hoses for custom made ones as well (larger bolt will be too small for the union on a standard prelude hose).