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Gillinghampaul
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Post by Gillinghampaul » Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:10 am

I wont be doing that then! The manual says it stays straight but im guessing it doesnt then?
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mercutio
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Post by mercutio » Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:45 am

only held straight by 2 springs buddy so no they don't stay straight :lol:
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rob quilter
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Post by rob quilter » Sun Jan 26, 2014 12:22 pm

Welcome.

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Crazy_C
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Post by Crazy_C » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:30 pm

If you pull the fuse and enjoy a bit of freaking insane driving, it does get a bit, erm, interesting!!
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nick_s
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Post by nick_s » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:39 pm

Welcome along fella :)
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Gillinghampaul
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Post by Gillinghampaul » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:13 pm

Interesting how? Does the back just do what it wants? Is there any way to lock it all off?
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wurlycorner
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Post by wurlycorner » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:11 pm

Gillinghampaul wrote:Interesting how? Does the back just do what it wants?
Just to get your perspective right on this...

When the 4ws is in fault mode, it doesn't wobble about all over the place. They're not 100% locked, because as said they're only held in place by a coupe of springs. But the wheels are held pretty stiffly in the centre. If you're driving broadly straight, on a flat road, they aren't going anywhere.

What happens is they do get pulled about slightly by ruts in the road/bumps etc. and under strong lateral forces in high speed cornering. It's not masses of movement (a few degrees) but it's enough to unerve the car.

So yes, you can't just pull the fuse and live with the car like that. But if it fails, you can still drive the car without crashing - just don't push it, take it steady and be prepared to have it 'squirm about' under you, on undulating/rough roads.
Gillinghampaul wrote: Is there any way to lock it all off?
For wheel alignment purposes, you insert a 'locking tool' in a hole in the middle of the rear rack. You should not drive it like that though - the tool is not designed to take loads under driving.

The only way to lock it off is to swap the rear subframe from a 4ws, to 2ws subframe.
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