Best gearbox routes.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:51 pm

Hi guys.

Need some advise. Now I see all this talk about gearbox's and ratios ect. What is the best way (and cheapest)

to get good ratios/performance in the trans. Now I was thinking about an MFactory standard LSD and a MFactory final drive. That could set me back £7-800 I think

. Or can the diff ect be swapped out of something else, like the ATR?

Cheers chaps

Dino · Post by **Dino** » Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:35 pm

Lsd quaiffe/mfactory £400-600.
4.64 final drive £500

Choice of gearboxes endless except m2b4, the 5g viscous lsd 5g box and Atts/sh gearboxes.

Choose the ratios you want from the remaining boxes found in the prelude wiki links

Post by **cebul** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:30 pm

Atr box (u2q7) is best option compare price/performance.

5th gear is a bit short but that can be swaped

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:25 am

M2F5 + MFactory final drive + diff of your choice = the best combo.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:52 am

M2U4 + ATTS + uber longer ratios.

Why cant they do final drives for the M2U4 box.

Froidas · Post by **Froidas** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:53 am

I agree with cebul. If your engine is not FI and is not monster NA, then this is maybe the best price/performance kit:
U2Q7 + MFactory 4,64 diff + longer 5th gear = very short 1-4 gears, comfortable 5th gear and helical LSD.

Also I would recommend these:
* all new synchros, for example carbon ones from MFactory
* all new seals
* if your U2Q7 is prefacelift - facelift 5th gear sleeve to fix that common 5th gear problem. I have the part number somewhere...
* wash, brush and repaint

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:03 pm

Depending on how much your looking to spend you could do a k20 conversion for 2.5k.. just food for thought

Post by **Merlin** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:39 pm

Why all the concern for a longer 5th? Getting an aftermarket final drive shortens all the ratio's and is performance driven. Ideally you want a short 5th gear as that means the car is accelerating as fast as possible in 5th gear.

Also the U2Q7 has a longer first gear than regular Lude gearboxes (just like the M2P4), shorter 2nd & 3rd, the same 4th gear as all other boxes, and the same 5th gear as the rest of the UK gearboxes. It is only the M2A4 and M2B4 that has a longer 5th gear.

The downside of of using the U2Q7/M2P4 is the danger of constant wheel spin in 2nd and 3rd, especially when using an aftermarket final drive.

Post by **Thebusofwoe** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:27 pm

Thanks all for the thoughts and comments. Will have a good read through.

K30DPC · Post by **K30DPC** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:02 pm

I'm running U2Q7, 205+BHP and T1R tyres and I have to disagree with

Merlin wrote:The downside of of using the U2Q7/M2P4 is the danger of constant wheel spin in 2nd and 3rd

On wet it's quite common to spin on 2nd gear but on dry I never ever had traction problems on 3rd (it's hapened few times on 2nd) and more likely is my clutch sliping then wheels.

I believe it's all depends what tyres you using. If budget ones then it can be an issue, but still it's your rubbers fault nothing else

Lude Generation

Best gearbox routes.

Best gearbox routes.

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