'99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.

BlackShadow · Post by **BlackShadow** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:28 pm

I'm sure I could find some odds and ends, but the quality is what worries me. I saw some ball joints for $6, there's no way I'd trust those. It's just a matter of huntin the stuff down. Suspension is new to me, I was planning on doing it all next year, but I've been thrown in the deep end, and am way behind on my research in that department.

In other news:

The engine is finally ready to come out!!!

The only problem is the axle nuts absolutely refuse to budge. I've soaked them with wd40 and put all of my 205lbs on the end of a breaker bar. All the resulted in was a cleanly sheared off screwdriver (wedged in the brake rotor to stop it from turning)

I hit them four times each with an impact. The didn't budge.

I'm at a standstill now. I can use a cutoff wheel and split the nut (hopefully without touching the axle). Or I could try it with some heat. That's all I can think of. If anyone has any ideas, let me know.

The "S" express · Post by **honda-hardy** » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:25 am

i had the same issue when changing the gearbox on a 5th gen auto.
remove the brake caliper
remove the carrier
undo the top joint
undo the bottom joint
remove the track rod from the suspension leg
remove the clip/tie that holds the inner c.v boot on the inner drive shaft
remove the suspension leg with the drive shaft still attached to the hub assembly. there are 3 bearings, these will fall off the shaft tri-end so place some rag on the floor to (a) stop the bearing getting dirty, (b) stop the floor getting covered in cv grease.
drain gearbox oil
get a chizzle and knock the drive shaft end from the box. place out of the way

on the rebuild you need to hold the whole assembly, place the drive shaft through the lower suspension fork and then refit the drive shaft end back on the shaft and re-tie the boot. getting the shaft to re-engage in the box could be a pain as it needs to click back into the box.

Post by **DaveyBa8** » Mon Jul 29, 2013 2:00 am

Don't hit the shaft the metal will sweal as it goes in the way and you won't get the nut of or on again because the threads will be wanked, if you have the brakes off, jam a crow bar between the wheel studs, it will lock against 2 studs and the ground. Use you breaker then, if it really ain't budging you could try a hammer and chisel on the nut at an angle of about 45degrees trying to turn it anticlockwise. It may free it up for the breaker to.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:05 am

Blimey, this is sounding like a major PITA job.
Not had quite that much trouble on any other driveshaft but I've done before. What makes these so hard do you think?

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:35 pm

put the wheel back on go to a friendly garage plead with him/bribe with a beer or money to undo the nut then put it back on and leave it extension bar tight drive home slowly then strip it

BlackShadow · Post by **BlackShadow** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:37 am

I haven't had much time to do any meaningful work on the car lately. The engine is ready to come out more or less. The shop manual is a bit vague. I've found a few nuts and bolts along the way that were not in there.

I have been stripping down the shock forks and wire wheeling the fasteners. I was getting geared up to press out the old bushings, but I left my job at the shop and now have no access to that equipment anymore. Ill have to find a way around that. The forks are stripped down to bare metal. Now I am set to hit them with some por15 paint.

I also picked these up at last:

^Stancie's cat

I spoke with Tein about these and confirmed that the pillow ball mounts won't work with these (street advance). I also confirmed the pronounciation of the company name. Contrary to popular beliefs, it is not pronounced "tee-in" "teen" "tine" or even "tein". It's actually...(ready for it?)... TANE/Tayne. Who'd have thought it?

I'm working at a new job now which has better hours, so ill be able to sneak in a few more hours of work on this car of mine and hopefully make some headway.

Stay tuned.

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 12:48 pm

Got to love it when Mr. Postie brings us a parcel, something fresh and new from a good brand!

BlackShadow wrote:I spoke with Tein about these and confirmed that the pillow ball mounts won't work with these (street advance). I also confirmed the pronounciation of the company name. Contrary to popular beliefs, it is not pronounced "tee-in" "teen" "tine" or even "tein". It's actually...(ready for it?)... TANE/Tayne. Who'd have thought it?

Who would have thought? Everyone in the UK I've heard pronounces it 'tine'. 'Tane' it is then!

Post by **Donald** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:32 pm

Thorough work BlackShadow but more pics are needed

nucleustylzlude wrote:Who would have thought? Everyone in the UK I've heard pronounces it 'tine'. 'Tane' it is then!

Do they? I went by guide of vein, feint, gallein etc. and figured it must be an -ane sound, but them I do of course know everything.

mercutio · Post by **mercutio** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:55 pm

except how to get on with women

Supercharged 無限MUGEN BB1 Profile · Post by **nucleustylzlude** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:43 pm

Everyone I've met into cars pronounce it the way I said. I guess you are just special Donald...'special'.

Lude Generation

'99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.

Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.

Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.