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Rattys brilliant genius Audio amazingness Build PIC WARNING!
- RattyMcClelland
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Rattys brilliant genius Audio amazingness Build PIC WARNING!
Bare with me. If your lost and confused i will try to explain. LOTS OF PICS WARNING! Some will make you spuff.

- RattyMcClelland
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Re: Ratty brilliant genius Audio amazingness Build
WORK IN PROGRESS
Iv been busy over the past 3 years sorting the audio out since the car has been offroad.
Anyway here some progress over the past few years up until the Sub i installed.
Some Specs as of 2016
1996 JDM Honda Prelude Type S
Headunit - Clarion Drz9255 or Pioneer P99rs
Tweeter amp - Genesis SA50
Midrange amp - Genesis DA110
Midbass amp - Genesis Dual mono
Sub amp - Genesis Dual mono
Tweeters - Hybrid Audio Technologies L1pro SE
Midrange - Hybrid Audio Technologies L3SE
Midbass - Hybrid Audio Technologies L6SE
Sub - Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus Sw12
Dizzy - Audison 4 way thingy
Battery - Stinger SPV44 relocated to boot.
1st Task was to strip the car and strip the OEM TAR deadening, degrease the interior and then apply the sound deadening.
Iv Maxmat pro 40sqft throughout the car with Second Skin Sludge onto.
Iv used a further 20sqft of Silent Coat extra 4mm in the doors and rear seats and need a further 20sqft to seal the rear of the car followed by some foam to pad out rattles.
Iv saved 12kg removing OEM deadening but put back in 20kg of aftermarket deadening.



















Iv been busy over the past 3 years sorting the audio out since the car has been offroad.
Anyway here some progress over the past few years up until the Sub i installed.
Some Specs as of 2016
1996 JDM Honda Prelude Type S
Headunit - Clarion Drz9255 or Pioneer P99rs
Tweeter amp - Genesis SA50
Midrange amp - Genesis DA110
Midbass amp - Genesis Dual mono
Sub amp - Genesis Dual mono
Tweeters - Hybrid Audio Technologies L1pro SE
Midrange - Hybrid Audio Technologies L3SE
Midbass - Hybrid Audio Technologies L6SE
Sub - Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus Sw12
Dizzy - Audison 4 way thingy
Battery - Stinger SPV44 relocated to boot.
1st Task was to strip the car and strip the OEM TAR deadening, degrease the interior and then apply the sound deadening.
Iv Maxmat pro 40sqft throughout the car with Second Skin Sludge onto.
Iv used a further 20sqft of Silent Coat extra 4mm in the doors and rear seats and need a further 20sqft to seal the rear of the car followed by some foam to pad out rattles.
Iv saved 12kg removing OEM deadening but put back in 20kg of aftermarket deadening.




















- RattyMcClelland
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Some wiring. 0 awg from front to back. Iv yet to finish the battery relocation but for now most of the wiring is in place apart from the RCAs.







And the amp rack made from fibreglass and wood. I may rework the amps rack and relocate the processor to the parcel shelf and i have an external Mcintosh DAC planned to sit where the processor is.








And the amp rack made from fibreglass and wood. I may rework the amps rack and relocate the processor to the parcel shelf and i have an external Mcintosh DAC planned to sit where the processor is.



- RattyMcClelland
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Aiming test and door builds
Iv tried pretty much every location possible both 2 way and 3way. And iv yet to decide upon a final outcome. L4 kicks, L3se kicks, L3se pillars , l6se and l1pro SE kicks. (these are all speaker names boys for Hybrid Audio)
l6se doors you name it.













And finished. Im not completely happy with them and i will attempt to redo them and put better fabric onto them.



Iv tried pretty much every location possible both 2 way and 3way. And iv yet to decide upon a final outcome. L4 kicks, L3se kicks, L3se pillars , l6se and l1pro SE kicks. (these are all speaker names boys for Hybrid Audio)
l6se doors you name it.













And finished. Im not completely happy with them and i will attempt to redo them and put better fabric onto them.




- RattyMcClelland
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Headunit and red interior




Heres how the front end sits at the moment. The L6SE wouldnt fit into the kicks without seriously compromising foot space and driving ability so they stay in the doors where they have bag loads of airspace. I seem to like the L1pro SE in the pillars, they are smooth up there, in the kicks i have serious rainbowing going on.





Heres how the front end sits at the moment. The L6SE wouldnt fit into the kicks without seriously compromising foot space and driving ability so they stay in the doors where they have bag loads of airspace. I seem to like the L1pro SE in the pillars, they are smooth up there, in the kicks i have serious rainbowing going on.


- RattyMcClelland
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Onto the subwoofer. Im especially proud of this so far. Im about 80% finished with the sub install. The aim to to be Infinite Baffle.
Heres the bad boy. Built like nothing else. Its so tough and the suspension and surround and very stiff. And 30mm of Xmax. Owwwwww



The proposed idea to to mount the sub to the back seats instead of creating a baffle behind the seats. The parcel shelf is 7" deep so a 12" sub WONT fit there.
I did this today

Birch Ply at 18mm thick

Cut hole into the seats metal so it can breath in front.

Using these to secure everything.

Deadened

Mounted

Onto the seat foam

Removed alot of foam to help the sub breath and drilled holes to the front of the foam

OEM Carpet folded back and sub cutout..

Sub bolted down in 8 placs


Rears seats fold down and i wanted to keep that feature. Thansk to my amazingness the sub clear the shelf and folds down fully just.

Non the wiser

How sexy

Just clear the carpet on the floor but im yet to finish the boot floor.

The rear seats now weight 25kg or more. They are heavy but the whole thing fits perfectly and when closed it shut tight. The Sub is 15kg alone, alone with the 18mm thick Birch Plywood for strength and then the mass deadening onto it. BUT its all infront of the rear wheels so its more like a NSX now
Heres the bad boy. Built like nothing else. Its so tough and the suspension and surround and very stiff. And 30mm of Xmax. Owwwwww



The proposed idea to to mount the sub to the back seats instead of creating a baffle behind the seats. The parcel shelf is 7" deep so a 12" sub WONT fit there.
I did this today

Birch Ply at 18mm thick

Cut hole into the seats metal so it can breath in front.

Using these to secure everything.

Deadened

Mounted

Onto the seat foam

Removed alot of foam to help the sub breath and drilled holes to the front of the foam

OEM Carpet folded back and sub cutout..

Sub bolted down in 8 placs


Rears seats fold down and i wanted to keep that feature. Thansk to my amazingness the sub clear the shelf and folds down fully just.

Non the wiser

How sexy

Just clear the carpet on the floor but im yet to finish the boot floor.

The rear seats now weight 25kg or more. They are heavy but the whole thing fits perfectly and when closed it shut tight. The Sub is 15kg alone, alone with the 18mm thick Birch Plywood for strength and then the mass deadening onto it. BUT its all infront of the rear wheels so its more like a NSX now


- RattyMcClelland
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Some thoughts
1 - The stage is very right sided or left sided. No amount of phase flipping helps. Flipping the phase on 1 mid make matter worse as i loose all midbass and no change in image. Im sure im getting peaks in the frequency and i dont have left right EQ.
2 - After turning the sub on i can JUST hear a slight delay between midbass and sub. Sub sounds delayed a little. Ever so slightly but its pulling back a bit. Phase doesnt change anything and i think the front end needs to be time aligned to the sub if im honest. For this reason it doesnt fully blend with the front end.
BUT MY GOD IT DROPS. Sub isnt loosened up yet but its more than loud enough off 260w. It needs no more.
1 - The stage is very right sided or left sided. No amount of phase flipping helps. Flipping the phase on 1 mid make matter worse as i loose all midbass and no change in image. Im sure im getting peaks in the frequency and i dont have left right EQ.
2 - After turning the sub on i can JUST hear a slight delay between midbass and sub. Sub sounds delayed a little. Ever so slightly but its pulling back a bit. Phase doesnt change anything and i think the front end needs to be time aligned to the sub if im honest. For this reason it doesnt fully blend with the front end.
BUT MY GOD IT DROPS. Sub isnt loosened up yet but its more than loud enough off 260w. It needs no more.

- RattyMcClelland
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AND FINALLY AS OF 27/02/12
Today was a good day. I was blown away in 3 areas.
1 - The sub bass is freeing up nicely and now the Fi is much more in tune with the L6SE, ESPECIALLY now the L6SE are dedicated Midbass's. They blend perfectly and because of this the L6SE have become very transparent. The Fi is still running in but its dropping much more now with authority. Also im hearing less delay between the sub and front. Cant really tell them apart but maybe its a placebo but im aware the sub is behind because i know i installed it there but this doesnt detach from listening.
2 - Running the L3SE and L1pro SE Passive in the kicks works sooooo well for imaging and doing this has taken the sound stage out of my doors on 1 side and its much more focused infront of me now. Again not perfect BUT the best im going to get running full analogue and no TA.
3 - Iv listened to some music with this setup for 2 hours now and the sub has added so much. Im hearing background bass iv never heard from other subs iv has. Im running it at SQ levels and its MORE than loud enough for wobbly bass monkeys.Car vibrates too much before loudness anyway.
But the music im hearing is making me smile lots. Very enjoyable. Not had that in a while. David Guettas Nothing but the beat album was great.
Oh and the Arc DXE noise i was having has gone. It was suggested to me that because the car is off road and we have had a very dry winter that the coils in the Amps and DXE dont have chance to discharge and they do so when i reconnect the battery and play some music for 10mins.
Anyhow if i removed the battery and then connected the positive of the car through some wire and a fuse to the chassis it would blow the fuse as the current discharges. So thats not an issue and i have silent goodness.
Im running the L3SE and L1pro SE off a set of Infinity reference passives. Not ideal or great but you get the idea. Will get the Hybrid L2x passives soon which give more ideal crossover point for the tweeters.


This helped a little by raising the tweeter. Doing this will stop legs blocking the tweeters. Just need to get glassing those kicks up now.

A crude attempt at sealing the rear 6x9 holes for the sub. Pillow, foam and my Domo Kun car teddy FTW.

I love this thing. Arc audio did well. To better it they need l/r parametic EQ.

2 issues.
- Some rainbowing going on. Not massive this time and not a problem. Male and female vocals are right up there, leccy guitars and extreme left rights are quite low down. But speakers need fully installing 1st.
- Its a good job i never sold those L3SE. Im now hearing distortion on the L3 that has the slit in the cone. Especially on large dynamic midrange peaks and at volume. Its farts more than distorts. So will try and get 1 L3SE from yankyville at a later date.
Whats left to do
- Finish door build properly
- Glass the kicks build and install the speakers
- Make a processor rack on the rear parcel shelf and also put some new cable for the tweeters through the car.
- Put DXE controls back below the headunit
- Make my own RCA cables for the WHOLE setup.
- Finish relocating the battery to the boot
- Finish the amp rack and boot floor covering
- Finish sealing the rear of the car for the subwoofer with some MORE silent coat sound deadening.
- RTA the system and level match properly
- Add acoustic foam to the underside of the dash to reduce early reflections
- Obtain a Mcintosh MX5000 headunit (£1000) and obtain the Mcintosh MDA5000 DAC (£1000-1500)
Today was a good day. I was blown away in 3 areas.
1 - The sub bass is freeing up nicely and now the Fi is much more in tune with the L6SE, ESPECIALLY now the L6SE are dedicated Midbass's. They blend perfectly and because of this the L6SE have become very transparent. The Fi is still running in but its dropping much more now with authority. Also im hearing less delay between the sub and front. Cant really tell them apart but maybe its a placebo but im aware the sub is behind because i know i installed it there but this doesnt detach from listening.
2 - Running the L3SE and L1pro SE Passive in the kicks works sooooo well for imaging and doing this has taken the sound stage out of my doors on 1 side and its much more focused infront of me now. Again not perfect BUT the best im going to get running full analogue and no TA.
3 - Iv listened to some music with this setup for 2 hours now and the sub has added so much. Im hearing background bass iv never heard from other subs iv has. Im running it at SQ levels and its MORE than loud enough for wobbly bass monkeys.Car vibrates too much before loudness anyway.
But the music im hearing is making me smile lots. Very enjoyable. Not had that in a while. David Guettas Nothing but the beat album was great.
Oh and the Arc DXE noise i was having has gone. It was suggested to me that because the car is off road and we have had a very dry winter that the coils in the Amps and DXE dont have chance to discharge and they do so when i reconnect the battery and play some music for 10mins.
Anyhow if i removed the battery and then connected the positive of the car through some wire and a fuse to the chassis it would blow the fuse as the current discharges. So thats not an issue and i have silent goodness.
Im running the L3SE and L1pro SE off a set of Infinity reference passives. Not ideal or great but you get the idea. Will get the Hybrid L2x passives soon which give more ideal crossover point for the tweeters.


This helped a little by raising the tweeter. Doing this will stop legs blocking the tweeters. Just need to get glassing those kicks up now.

A crude attempt at sealing the rear 6x9 holes for the sub. Pillow, foam and my Domo Kun car teddy FTW.

I love this thing. Arc audio did well. To better it they need l/r parametic EQ.

2 issues.
- Some rainbowing going on. Not massive this time and not a problem. Male and female vocals are right up there, leccy guitars and extreme left rights are quite low down. But speakers need fully installing 1st.
- Its a good job i never sold those L3SE. Im now hearing distortion on the L3 that has the slit in the cone. Especially on large dynamic midrange peaks and at volume. Its farts more than distorts. So will try and get 1 L3SE from yankyville at a later date.
Whats left to do
- Finish door build properly
- Glass the kicks build and install the speakers
- Make a processor rack on the rear parcel shelf and also put some new cable for the tweeters through the car.
- Put DXE controls back below the headunit
- Make my own RCA cables for the WHOLE setup.
- Finish relocating the battery to the boot
- Finish the amp rack and boot floor covering
- Finish sealing the rear of the car for the subwoofer with some MORE silent coat sound deadening.
- RTA the system and level match properly
- Add acoustic foam to the underside of the dash to reduce early reflections
- Obtain a Mcintosh MX5000 headunit (£1000) and obtain the Mcintosh MDA5000 DAC (£1000-1500)

