Debadging & Touching Up

Mudgey · Post by **Mudgey** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:39 pm

Hello,

When my lude is off the road I am going to debadge it, repaint the bonnet, the roof and the boot. Does anybody know what paint is used on the black prelude type S 1996 5th gen?

Can somebody with a bit of experience give me some advive on the following:

1. What grade sandpaper before primer?
2. What grade sandpaper after primer?
3. Do I need to use stopper/blocker on any fillered areas?
4. What grade sandpaper after the base coat?
5. What primer do you recommend? Spray gun stuff or rattle can?

Cheers!

Post by **Merlin** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:40 pm

Mudgey wrote:Does anybody know what paint is used on the black prelude type S 1996 5th gen?

Your paint code should be in the passenger door jam.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 1:21 pm

One for @RattyMcClelland, he gets off on these sorts of questions

Post by **Vtecmec** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:19 pm

1. What grade sandpaper before primer? finish with 240's or 320's

2. What grade sandpaper after primer? 400's moving onto 800's

3. Do I need to use stopper/blocker on any fillered areas? It's good stuff for filling pinholes and easier to sand with the finer final paper grades, so skim a small layer over the repair once you think your where you need to be and knock it down with the finer paper.

4. What grade sandpaper after the base coat? None, wait 20 mins then lacquer without touching.

5. What primer do you recommend? Spray gun stuff or rattle can? 2k's best from a spray gun. Just about to try BH's epoxy mastic myself.

I'm sure Ratty will be able to add further to this.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:03 pm

Vtecmec wrote:1. What grade sandpaper before primer? finish with 240's or 320's

2. What grade sandpaper after primer? 400's moving onto 800's

3. Do I need to use stopper/blocker on any fillered areas? It's good stuff for filling pinholes and easier to sand with the finer final paper grades, so skim a small layer over the repair once you think your where you need to be and knock it down with the finer paper.

4. What grade sandpaper after the base coat? None, wait 20 mins then lacquer without touching.

5. What primer do you recommend? Spray gun stuff or rattle can? 2k's best from a spray gun. Just about to try BH's epoxy mastic myself.

I'm sure Ratty will be able to add further to this.

Pretty much spot on.

Bilt Hamber epoxy mastic takes forever to dry/cure. Even with forced infra red heat.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:05 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:Bilt Hamber epoxy mastic takes forever to dry/cure. Even with forced infra red heat.

How long unforced? a day enough?

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 9:36 pm

Vtecmec wrote:
RattyMcClelland wrote:Bilt Hamber epoxy mastic takes forever to dry/cure. Even with forced infra red heat.
How long unforced? a day enough?

7-9hours at around 20degrees C. Infra red lamps didnt really do much but make it flash off until dust dry in about 1 hours but it was still soft underneath.

From my experience it sprayed best when 10% thinned with standard thinners in my 1.3mm tip gun, ideally id prefer a 1.8mm-2mm tip, one light drop coat with 5mins flash off and then 2 medium/heavy coats (wet without running) with 5mins flash off. Try not to get drips its so sticky and a nightmare to get off with thinners.
It does stay tacky for a while so dust will land but its soo thick it can be sanded back nicely. Id wait until the next day to sand back, and it just loves to clog up sand paper. And its super strong. 180grit would break it un less i really raped the panel.
So if you priming only part of the panel feather it out far. Overlap the spray about 2-3 inch per layer.