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Ideas please

Oooooo .... shiny!
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Post by kris_aka_edu » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:21 pm

Wicked ill give that a go tomorrow. Got any pictures to help me at all?

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Post by Gayno » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:30 pm

I don't as it's a 5 minute job!

Inside there's a small plastic cover you prise off which you would do to change the bulb in the brake light. From in here you can see the washer nozzle, just squeeze the plastic retaining clips in and you should be able to push it out.

Once popped out, clean the paintwork and the nozzle, apply some sealant (leaving the rubber gasket in place) then push the nozzle back into place until it clicks. Wipe off any excess sealant, and wait for it to dry :)

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Post by kris_aka_edu » Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:37 pm

As its a 5 minute job that will take me an hour then! Ill have a look at it tomorrow mate but appreciate the advise!

Is it still worth messing around with the sun roof? Will it make much difference to weight etc? I don't really use it any way so it wouldn't be for comfort.

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Post by wurlycorner » Thu Jul 04, 2013 10:18 pm

Have you done the washer nozzle yet?
I must say, it's a right PITA to get at, because of where it's at. When you push it out, be careful you don't dent the roof outwards (it bends very easily). If you're tempted to disconnect the pipe from it, beware that's a complete pain to re-connect too (you just can't get your fingers in there).

As for the sunroof, it really isn't worth the aggro trying to get rid of it. If you're concerned, just check that the bladders are clear where they come out of the bodywork (if you look up inside the sides of the rear bumper you should be able to see them, rubber pointy type things. Give them a squeeze so they open up and see if anything comes out.
If they were blocked though, it would overflow into the inside of the rear arches which would run down into the bottom of the boot (spare wheel well). It wouldn't get into the rear lights (it would have to go uphill and over a lip and then through the plastic seal to get there)

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Post by kris_aka_edu » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:21 pm

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Me and Danny think we have found the problem. Just stuck a load of tiger seal on it for a quick fix, and will need to weld the boot lip that the rubber seal sits on. Hopefully it fixes the problem?! God knows.

But thanks for the advise @wurlycorner we did take off all the roof lining and checked all the drainage pipes and there was no leaks from the back window either. The high level "Prelude light" that drips water from it is not a leak as it doesn't happen when it rains it was in the winter and we think it was because of the condensation.

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Post by kris_aka_edu » Mon Jul 15, 2013 8:59 pm

Right so after putting the rubber seal back on, I tiger sealed the whole lot up. I also found another hole that was leaking, this was the hole for the aerial, which for now I have just duck tapped up until I can weld it and fill it properly :lol:

So now its all done, I got the car washed and its still happening!! Arrrrrgg!!

How hard is it to find a short in a cable for my rear lights? Would it be easier to just wire it all up again from scratch or is this a pain in the ass? I've gone through at least 10 15amp fuses and its quite dangerous!

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Post by wurlycorner » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:33 pm

Is it still only happening when it's wet? Or have you had it happen when it was dry too?
When it blows and you change the fuse, can you get it to blow again straight away or is it ok straight away?

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Post by kris_aka_edu » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:39 pm

I can't tell as I'm driving it, me and Danny tried to blow it but it wouldn't blow when it was wet. Really weird! Can't seem to work it out. And its getting dangerous now as people keep getting out of the car and telling me I have no break lights.

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Post by wurlycorner » Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:13 pm

Simplest thing to try would be to swap the rear light assemblies (not the outer bits that are bolted to the body, just the bulb holder insert part - unplug it, undo the screws and swap with a replacement). There's normally no problem finding oem rear lights on here/off breakers.

Only thing to be careful of is that for some reason there are variations in how the rear clusters are wired (internally) so you'd be well to check whatever ones you get to try are wired the same and have the same type of 'bulb out' detector circuit (there are different types).

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