Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.

>>> Click Here For Profile <<<

Image

Cleaning tips.

Oooooo .... shiny!
User avatar
Confused
Posts: 749
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2012 11:44 am
My Generation: 4G
Location: Notts / Essex
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 11 times
Contact:

Post by Confused » Tue Sep 13, 2016 12:23 pm

I love threads like this :) You always get people throwing about a huge list of products or equipment, which require a huge outlay, and a special set routine every week! :D

If you've never done anything to properly look after your paint, then probably the best thing you can do first off is to pay a professional to do a paint restoration on your car. They will then use all of their expensive equipment and knowledge, and present you with a car which then just requires regular, minimal effort to keep looking good.

This minimal effort will then probably just consist of a regular wash with a good quality wash mitt, and an occasional top up of the "LSP" (Last Step Product), such as wax or sealant every few months.

User avatar
damon
Posts: 1233
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:36 pm
My Generation: 5G
Location: Cheshire

Post by damon » Tue Sep 13, 2016 12:32 pm

I just use bucket and sponge, autoglim shampoo once iv washed it I go for a drive to dry it as I can't be arsed wasting anymore time lol

User avatar
nitin_s1
Posts: 10499
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:09 pm
My Generation: 5G
PSN GamerTag: N171N
Location: London
Has thanked: 147 times
Been thanked: 135 times
Contact:

Post by nitin_s1 » Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:17 pm

Once in a blue moon ---- I mean once in a year when I do wash the car..

Snow foam ( I have the cheapo Demonshine one - the one where you attach your hose pipe and foam comes out) I will get a better one once this finishes.
Rinse with Jet wash
Wash with Merguair's gold car wash with wash mit (not with sponge or sand paper)
Rinse again..
Dry..

If I can be bothered even more I do a minimal detail which includes cutting compound, Polish and then wax. :mrgreen:

User avatar
preludemanh22
Posts: 1925
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:21 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: south wales

Post by preludemanh22 » Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:46 pm

RattyMcClelland wrote:A soft clay well remove the tar. yer and stick to the clay then rubbing it all in the paint bad idea no detailer does that mate bad advice

I use bilt hamber autofoam snow foam,
autowheel wheel cleaner,
Kerrosol fallout remover,
Bh autowash shampoo,
Bh autoclay

Carlack bug remover
3m perfect it range polish

Carlack acrylic in the prelude
Gyeon mohs on the van.

Poorboys wheel on the preludes wheels
Nanolex ultra Matt on the van wheels
RattyMcClelland wrote:A soft clay well remove the tar.

I use bilt hamber autofoam snow foam,
autowheel wheel cleaner,
Kerrosol fallout remover,
Bh autowash shampoo,
Bh autoclay

Carlack bug remover
3m perfect it range polish

Carlack acrylic in the prelude
Gyeon mohs on the van.

Poorboys wheel on the preludes wheels
Nanolex ultra Matt on the van wheels

User avatar
RattyMcClelland
Moderator
Posts: 9208
Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:02 pm
My Generation: 5G
PSN GamerTag: RattyMcClelland
Location: Leicestershire
Been thanked: 203 times

Post by RattyMcClelland » Tue Sep 13, 2016 8:07 pm

It's fine. I detail and do bodywork for a living. Most times only clay bars remove tar. Not even paint thinners touches it.

Been doing it many years.
Image

User avatar
preludemanh22
Posts: 1925
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:21 pm
My Generation: 4G
Location: south wales

Post by preludemanh22 » Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:17 am

RattyMcClelland wrote:It's fine. I detail and do bodywork for a living. Most times only clay bars remove tar. Not even paint thinners touches it.

Been doing it many years.
Paint thinners won't best stuff is car pro tar x just melts it off smells nice it contains orange oil u will be impressed ;-)

User avatar
Sailor
Supporter 2016
Posts: 3293
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:36 pm
My Generation: 0G
Location: Hampshire
Has thanked: 63 times
Been thanked: 142 times
Contact:

Post by Sailor » Thu Sep 15, 2016 2:20 am

I found some stuff on the car's roof that looked like a smallish animal had puked on it. It had baked on hard in a couple of hours' sun. Lots of water did nothing except to make it go a bit sticky. I now think it was a resin of some sort, with seeds in it. The only thing I had that could get rid of it was Wynn's engine de-greaser!

Keep out of the Barfield car park in Winchester, pals. There's nowhere to park there that isn't within spitting distance of a tree.
International Pensioner of Mystery

Free Ranj Egg
Posts: 609
Joined: Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:11 pm
My Generation: 5G
Been thanked: 8 times

Post by Free Ranj Egg » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:56 am

Interesting thread. I recently tried to give my car a once over and it really didn't work.

The paint has a lot of road dirt marks in it which I couldn't get out. Purchased Autoglyn shampoo and a wet wax, and polish. £20 Quid and it didn't make that much of a difference

My question is though, how do you get rid of the mould on the trim?
I came before the chicken.. The argument is now settled!!

H22A8 197 motor with 190k on the clock
Tanabe lowering springs.
Skunk 2 megapower exhaust with a decat
M2B4 LSD Gearbox
Lightened flywheel
S2000 Steering Wheel
Type S Door inserts in Red

User avatar
Shiny
Posts: 1972
Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:15 pm
My Generation: 0G
Location: Sunny Swindon
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 11 times

Post by Shiny » Thu Sep 15, 2016 3:58 pm

A clay bar is worth investing in, although you only really need to clay once a year (or less if your paint doesn't need it). You'll need a soft one, but even so there is a chance of a clay bar marring soft Honda paint. You need a quick detailer for the clay, or make up a shampoo and water solution in a spray bottle.

If you want to keep to a budget, the first thing to buy is a decentish wash mit and some soft microfibre cloths, a microfibre drying towel helps no end (KKD Silverback is pretty awesome).

Shampoo, well any car shampoo should do, you can pay silly money for some. Snow foam is a great investment, but you'll need a pressure washer and will need to fork out £40 ish on a lance for starters. So maybe something for a later date.

Machine polishing is a big outlay too, £100 for a DA, probably another £30 or £40 for pads, then polishes. Something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish is OK by hand, it is a heaving filling polish, but you'll need to work it to get any results, wiping on and wiping off may add a little shine, but it won't do much.

Personally i've given up on polishes as Honda paint scratches so easily and i'll run out of paint if i keep on polishing it, so i've moved on to Glare. I use Micro & Pro, applied by DA on soft pads, but you can apply by hand. Spider is a heavier filling polish, so a three stage Spider/Micro/Pro should yeild some good results. Its not the cheapest, but it is pretty awesome. You can always wax on top if you fancy.

http://www.glare-uk.co.uk/glare-products

There is a GB on DW that may still be open http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=383797 or use the 10% discount code.

Image
Image

User avatar
Shiny
Posts: 1972
Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:15 pm
My Generation: 0G
Location: Sunny Swindon
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 11 times

Post by Shiny » Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:00 pm

Free Ranj Egg wrote: My question is though, how do you get rid of the mould on the trim?
If it is plastic black trim, clean it off with an all purpose cleaner and then try some of this stuff - http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-an ... _1570.html
Image

Post Reply

Return to “Body Work / Detailing”