Lude Generation

Hi,

I have a question on how to connect the power steering in a K24-swapped 1993 Prelude.
The K24 doesn't have the speed sensor like the original engine. How can we connect it to keep the power steering?

The car is being rebuilt for endurance racing in Sweden.

Thanks,
Magnus

You can just loop the two small lines that once went to the original VSS on the gearbox and then connect up the main feed and return lines to the pump/resevoir as normal.
The 2 small lines at the VSS were only for variable rate steering, so basically made the steering very light at low speed

The two small lines are the two in the middle on the steering gearbox valve, right? I think those two where looped at our first installation but it seems to build up too much pressure with this solution.

Maybe I got this all wrong but, didn't the original VSS have a return line back to the reservoir that still needs to be present in some way?

At low speed the VSS gives higher pressure I believe, but we will not need that. Hopefully the car will be fast => less Power Steering.
So if we just loop the lines, will it not build up maximum pressure?

No the original VSS has only two ports - these are both linked directly to the steering rack, none return to the resevoir.
Looping those lines out of the rack will make the low speed steering assistance the same as higher speed, so slow speed is a little heavy but still assisted.
I have done this many times on BB4s when swapping in a later ATR transmission with later matching VSS which doesn't have PAS lines

Ok, thanks.

Earlier when it was connected as described above, with the two small lines looped, at engine start the steering turned fully to the right and was locked in that position.
There seems to be some other problem with the steering rack. Does somebody recognize this behavior?

Did you bleed the system, turning lock to lock several times?

Hmm, no I don't think we got that far before we got a major leak in the system. One of my team mates tried to turn the steering wheel back before the leak happened and his perception was that he couldn't turn the steering wheel back by hand.
It was the looped line that popped. I don't know if it was a bad line (it was new) or too much pressure due to some other error.

At the moment we have disconnected the main feed so the car is driveable (at least at walking pace).

Yep it takes a while to bleed the system by turning lock-lock and topping up.

Best done while the front of the car is up on axle stands etc (i.e. wheels off the ground)