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Turbo weld

Chassis/Brakes/Steering/Wheels discussion
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MaccaIRL
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Turbo weld

Post by MaccaIRL » Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:29 pm

Did any of you have to Seam weld your turbo ludes?
Friend says I'd have to for 300bhp but I'm not convinced

Yes I know im changing my mind again lol

Just as a build plan or fox and drive NA and buy subaru
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Post by Merlin » Tue Feb 09, 2016 3:39 pm

No you don't. Racers seam weld their chassis as it adds to the rigidity of the car. You don't need that on a road car even with lots of power. The Lude is pretty stiff in the first place.

@MaccaIRL Where you might actually need to stiffen is the radius rods. Putting lots of power through OEM radius rods can cause lots of wheel hop. Even my stock 5th gen has bad wheel hop on hard launches. The Innovative Mounts traction bar has solid radius rods and it not that expensive.
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Post by gb-lude » Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:30 pm

I haven't seamwelded my track turbo lude. it would benefit the front end a little but with a tractionbar , strut and lower braces and a full cage its fine.
Time Attack build crazy moneypit 556hp turbo Lude
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RattyMcClelland
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Post by RattyMcClelland » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:10 pm

Seam weld the Turbo or the chassis? :lol:

Not needed.
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Re: Turbo weld

Post by MaccaIRL » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:12 pm

Chassis lol

I don't know what to do...
How do u all fine grip etc on turbo ludes?
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Post by RattyMcClelland » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:41 pm

Turbo or power output has nothing to do with grip. The prelude has grip depending on tyres and suspension.
It won't be power that breaks traction, it's torque.
Decent tyres and decent coilovers will help.

If your struggling for grip with only 300bhp then something is wrong or the roads are cold, crap and or greasy.
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Re: Turbo weld

Post by MaccaIRL » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:44 pm

I can struggle for grip with 190 as it is haha
Running budget tyres so that's why lol

Turbo is a long way off yet but just want to have a decent idea of what I'm looking at
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Post by gb-lude » Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:12 pm

Get some very hard motormounts. thats the most comon couse of hop as the block tilts , you lose traction and then it titls back etc ect. I had lots of wheelhop when I had my tuned H22 with worn motormounts.
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Re: Turbo weld

Post by MaccaIRL » Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:14 pm

Speaking of hop I've another issue I meant to ask you lot about...

When I'm in low revs and lift clutch in first it sort of chugs then goes... High revs no problem but In lowish revs like 2k it feels like slipping on ice then goes okay. ..

Clutch feels okay through all other gears so didn't think it was the issue

Can maybe get a video and put on you tube
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Post by Merlin » Wed Feb 10, 2016 10:00 am

If you want that level of power and be able to use it properly you will most likely need (bringing together what the guys above have said):

Limited slip diff
Traction bar
Good tyres
Coilovers
Upgraded engine mounts
gb-lude wrote:thats the most comon couse of hop as the block tilts
Hop comes from the movement of the radius rods (due to the crappy rubber bushes on them) resulting in changes in caster which in turn changes front toe. The change in front toe reduces grip so the wheel spins. As grip is reduced caster returns to normal, as does the toe, so grip also returns. But then you are back to square one and the the cyclic loss and gaining of grip occurs, this results in the banging/hop.
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