Post
by Confused » Wed Nov 04, 2015 8:53 am
The only thing that holds the wheels straight is a large spring - which can, and is, overcome easily by variations in road surface as you are driving.
Additionally, unless it was locked (using the correct locking pin) during your alignment (which type of machine did they use, did you get a printout?), then it's also possible that it's been aligned with the wheels off-centre, which can also affect the alignment when actually driving.
(And, before you think about it, no, you can't drive with this locking pin in permanently, it is designed to purely lock it for the purposes of alignment, it will break if you leave it in and attempt to drive)
Most 4ws faults are actually very simple to fix - so begin the troubleshooting again (we will help you, just post up what you've done and the result) - or, remove the 4ws completely and fit a 2ws subframe.
I, personally, would fix the 4ws, then have a proper alignment done, using a reputable garage who have a Hunter alignment machine, and then see what it's like.
Also, another thing to note, is that wider wheels with lower profile tyres *will* follow the ruts and tramlines in the road more than the standard wheels and tyres. The original tyres will absorb some of this movement by the flex in the sidewalls, with the lower profile tyres, there's less give in the sidewalls, so this is translated to the rest of the car moving into the ruts.
With your 4ws not working too, this can be exaggerated by the movement of the wheels/body being unchecked due to a broken 4ws system, which hasn't got the huge electric motor engaged, holding the wheels in the correct position, relying only on the previously mentioned spring.
