Lude Generation

First up, how does one undo these circlips on the steering rack gaitor?



Also, what is the little hose going into it? do I need to do any special with it before removing?

One of the track rods is just spinning with the nut, so I can't undo it. Any suggestions?

Same with drop links, got the bottom nut off fine, but the allen head has rounded out so can't undo the top nut.

Help before I lose my patience!!

Those circlips look similar to driveshaft ones - if you prise open the 2 tabs that you can see folded round the band then it should come apart

You can just cut the metal ties on the rack gaitor off with tin snips.

The hose is a breather hose. Don't need to do anything before you undo it.

Is it the outer balljoint nut that's spinning? Is that after you've loosened the nut? Right PITA when that happens.
You can try clamping the back of the balljoint back down into the hub, using a G clamp (or similar). That sometimes works. Or try tightening the nut back up really tight first, then undoing it again.

What you're trying to do is get the cone of the balljoint nice and tight inside the cone of the hub so it jams tight, then it can cope with the force of you undoing the balljoint nut.

wurlycorner wrote:You can just cut the metal ties on the rack gaitor off with tin snips.

The hose is a breather hose. Don't need to do anything before you undo it.

Is it the outer balljoint nut that's spinning? Is that after you've loosened the nut? Right PITA when that happens.
You can try clamping the back of the balljoint back down into the hub, using a G clamp (or similar). That sometimes works. Or try tightening the nut back up really tight first, then undoing it again.

What you're trying to do is get the cone of the balljoint nice and tight inside the cone of the hub so it jams tight, then it can cope with the force of you undoing the balljoint nut.

Do I have to cut it off, or are they reusable?

Yeah it's the nut of the ball joint of the track rod that's spinning and therefore can't undo the nut. Can't do it up either, rust is just holding the nut in place. The other side came off no problem, which is strange as that side was rusted to hell, had to hacksaw the split pin off. This side I think has been off recently for MOT repair work, as it had a new split pin in which came out no problem!!

May have to break out a grinder to get these off methinks.

Put a trolley jack underneath the track rod end up pump it I'm to put some pressure on it and it'll undo. I would cut that clip off and pu a cable tie on it after as they rant under a lot of stress and a cable tie is substantial enough

Mole grips on the back of the anti roll bar link and it will undo

Rikmister wrote:I would cut that clip off and pu a cable tie on it after as they rant under a lot of stress and a cable tie is substantial enough

Sorry bud, but if I do a job I do it properly. A cable tie might do the job, but it's not the correct way of doing it!

I see your point but all that is is a dust cover so it would be fine

Like jj says some metal clips like that can be undone, most can't. Can't tell from the pic which that one is. If it unhooks to release then you can reuse. If it's been pulled through to tighten, then you can't.

Most people (including garages) do use ty-wraps when refitting these things. They aren't as good, because you get a 'pinch' at the pull through loop, but they are acceptable. What did the new gaitor come with in the kit?

Gayno wrote:Same with drop links, got the bottom nut off fine, but the allen head has rounded out so can't undo the top nut.

I had the same problem with the drop links on both sides, got the bottom nut off fine but the ball-joint bolt just spun around with the nut and destroyed the allen key fitting.
Last weekend when I tried to do the first one I must of spent 2-3 hours messing around with mole grips, stilsons and clamps trying to hold the bolt and still didn't get it off!
Earlier today I went and got a couple of thin cutting discs for my grinder and cut straight through the bolt (this is made a lot easier if you lock the steering over to give you room to get the grinder in).
Problem was, after I cut the bolt and removed the main body of the drop-link, part of the bolt and the nut were still left in the anti roll bar (top pic). So I rigged up a 1/4" socket using cable ties to hold everything still (2nd pic) and cut the bolt flush with the anti roll bar. All that was left to do was wire brush the bottom hole the drop link passes through and paint the anti roll bar where i'd caught it with the grinder (3rd pic). Both sides took less than an hour and a half using this method.
Going to fit the replacement drop links and rubbers tomorrow morning .