Yet another 4WS thread

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:14 pm

It should have been the first, as i told you its going to be it, not the ecu.

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:54 pm

Yes, I also think it's going to be it, but since I dont yet have the time and the option to raise the car on a lift, I went and tried the ECU..

Do you happen to have a picture how the sensor looks from below the car?

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Sun Mar 11, 2018 2:46 pm

https://goo.gl/images/zKpxe8

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:26 am

Thanks man, you are golden

This sensor, is it position-sensitive or does it only sends pulses / signals?
(When i take it out, do I need to put the needle back in the exact same direction / angle?)

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:19 pm

Steering rack has its insides shaped with inclining or declining angle (depends on point of view). So all the way to the left will give out lovest(highest) voltage, all the way to the right will give out highest (lovest) voltage. The needles position and voltage is affectes by the sterring rack position.

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 10:18 am

Anzezaf wrote: I also remembered, what if I have the 4W locking pin (permanently) installed in the rear rack? I read some thread on the american forums where a guy had that problem.. He removed it and solved his 4ws light.

Yes, if the locking pin was left in, it would definitely cause the 4ws to be defective. Don't know what code it would cause, but probably something related to the motor (it would think the motor isn't turning it is drawing too much current, or something)

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:42 pm

OK, so I just came back from the lift. The sub sensor on the steering rack looks and feels OK, smooth movement of the needle/ shaft and overall looks and condition also OK. Connector has no corrosion / is in perfect condition. I also did the voltages check on the connector according to the manual, and everything is OK..

There was oil in the sensor though, and it was slowly leaking out and had a brown-ish color. Don't know if that's normal, I guess it is.

Also, there is no locking pin inside the rear motor unit.

I'm thinking of going to some local Honda specialists and getting their opinion now..

Also if anyone knows of any working 4WS sensors for the 5th gen for sale, please let me know.

no0ne · Post by **no0ne** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:10 pm

Oil is normal, becouse according to the manual you are supposed to add oil in there. Well if you did check voltages according to manual and its all ok, then you've got yourself a headache. Try doing a neutral position check of the main sensor. Maybe the center position is f'ed up.
P.S dont bother going to honda dealer, becouse they will suggest you changing ecu- that was 1000eur. Of course it wont fix the problem, so you will end up spending all your cars worth and fixing jobby.

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:29 pm

Well, that's the problem - I can't do any position checking / calibration because of the goddamn unclearable error

I can take all the measurements etc., but if i cant delete the error, then I'm stuck..

Anzezaf · Post by **Anzezaf** » Sun Mar 18, 2018 2:38 pm

Also, I just did some diagnostic work for the main steering sensor. It seems IT is causing problems.
The B-phase on this picture wasn't correct - very weird / no pulses and voltage only at 2.2V
A-phase seemed to be okay though, as much as I could see with a digital voltmeter

https://i.imgur.com/33VyBin.jpg