Bad misfire under load

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:30 pm

i wonder if i need to look at the earth's? i will look to see where the main Lude ones are if anyone has a link please post as i may find me quicker than me finding the page in 1400+ in the manual lol

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 11:01 pm

hoppi05 wrote:Flywheel timing point?
is this marker what is need to set the timing? or is there something missing that is used in conjunction with it

Yes, that is the timing window.

What is that stud/nut doing in it? Is that part of the H2B conversion plate?

What flywheel have you used on the build?

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:15 am

Yes that's the conversion plate and fixing nut & bolt I have used a 98 ITR flywheel. From looking at the manual there should be something else to mark/line that nipple up with? Or am I reading it wrong?

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:51 am

The other mark is on the flywheel on an h22.
If B series engines don't have the timing marks on the flywheel (ee think they're on the crank pulley instead?) then that avenue is a dead end.

Is it not possible to use an h22 flywheel on an h2b conversion then?

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 8:57 am

no as you use the b series box, we can get the data in real time thankfully from the ECU which is about the only avenue so hopefully that does not break i am trying to build a 3 pin reader at home too like this one, which i am going to get from the guy as son as they are ready! it looks mega i have been emailing for a couple of weeks regarding it and info for it..

http://hondashapp.blogspot.co.uk/ this may need its own thread as it looks amazing should have windows, IOS & Android covered, it can read codes and all engine params from 0bd1 in realtime..

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:02 am

I have been thinking on how you could do the timing without removing your gearbox. This is how I would do it.

Get hold of a flywheel that is the same as the one you have fitted. Set a theoretical TDC mark on the flywheel, from the center point of the flywheel calculate 15 degrees BTDC. Count the teeth on the flywheel between TDC and 15 degrees BTDC.

On the engine find TDC, like Wurly says a long screw driver in cyclinder 1 with the rocker cover off so you can see the valves opening to get it on the correct part of the piston cycle. Once you have TDC mark the flywheel through the inspection hole, then count the teeth back and mark 15 degrees BTDC (use a different colour paint for the 2nd mark

). Then you should have a properly marked flywheel and you can then do the ignition timing and start to chase the problem. Even if timing is not the route cause of your issue it is best to get it done as if it is out you are robbing yourself of HP.

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:55 am

good way to do it Merlin thanks i will see if i can get a flywheel, well the tests are racking up for the weekend one of which is to make sure we hevent skipped a tooth using the age old screw driver test, just cot confirm the cylinder closest to the pully is cylinder 1

i hope we aint mucked that up lol. hows best to identify if the valves are fully open?

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:08 pm

hoppi05 wrote:just cot confirm the cylinder closest to the pully is cylinder 1

Yes the same cylinder/ignition lead you should have been connecting the timing gun to.

As Wurly said before, take the rocker cover off. You should be able to tell if you are in the correct part of the piston cycle as the timing marks on the cam gears should be easy to see with the rocker cover off. TDC is during compression so it should be after the intake valves have opened and closed.

wurlycorner wrote:If all else is lost, the way you find TDC is by making sure that the piston (usually No.1 but check for the H22, I've never looked up the firing order myself) is right at the top, with all valves closed, at the end of the 'up' stroke after the inlet valve has opened and closed.

Obviously this needs the rocker cover off so you can watch the valves.
You can tell whether the piston is all the way up by taking the spark plug out, dropping a long thin wooden or plastic thing in there and watch it go up and down as you rotate the engine by hand.

If the piston is at the top of its stroke and any valves are slightly open at this point in time, then your cam to crank timing is out (cambelt installed with the cam/crank pulleys in the wrong position in relation to each other)

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:41 pm

just to clarify something stupid but i am starting to second guess myself cylinder one is the one on the right of the pic below:

this is the one you would set the cams to tdc with using the time old screw driver method

i we assumed the h22 was the same as b16....

hoppi05 · Post by **hoppi05** » Thu Jun 25, 2015 12:13 pm

UPDATE:
ok so quick test with new dizzy fitted and no difference

lol well that's a lie now when i press the clutch in the revs drop down all the way and it cuts out, so thats new lol

so saturday everything off checked and back on again including new ECU which i haven't yet tried, hopefully try that this evening.

still no misfires since correcting the injector plugs which is good but still no power when accelerating with hesitation most near all the time.

starting to think the engine is drokked lol

Lude Generation

Bad misfire under load

Re: Bad misfire under load