Presents from the delivery types, cheers to scort as the calipers are ace.
Some pimpin' disks.

Pimpin' pads to go with the disks.

High quality rubber (ooer missus ont that kind!!!! you cheeky sort)

Decided to go for the Black Diamond 'Combi' disks because i wanted drilled and grooved (I like the look) on both front and rear, the pads are Black Diamonds own Predator pads and the refurb kits are all the rubber bits you need to make calipers good as new.

One of the calipers.
These are quite easy to take apart with the exception of getting the pot out, that was done with a bit of metal trough the brake line hole and a few taps with a hammer (careful not to damage the pot here). If you are going to attempt this I recommend having exact fit sockets (hexagonal tyes) as these do not round off nuts that are stiff.
The front calipers took some work with a drill powered wire brush to get all of the rust and other things off ready for solvent bath before painting. The pots, bolts, bleed nipples and metal retainers/sliders/springs come up really well using a softer brush. I used a rotary brass brush again in a drill, got everything shiny and nice.
Unfortunately no pics of the rears as I got a bit into it and forgot Embarassed but the principles are the same. However when detaching the handbrake cable the little stud holding it to the arm on the caliper has a slot (presumably for a screwdriver but it does not unscrew. The split pin just comes out and it takes some persuasion but the retaining pin slides out.

After a clean and bath in some petrol in one of mums old roasting tins we have shiny metal.
Remember to mask off important bits BEFORE spraying/painting the calipers lol. Don't want to have to clean paint off screw threads etc thats just more work.

Painted up nicely with the VHT paint.
Everything is clean and ready to go back together, again I got into the assembly and forgot to do pics (I know poor excuse Laughing ).
My biggest tip for this part of the proceedings is regarding putting the rubber in with the piston. The inner seal can be located and thats it, the outer seal will not stay in place while the pot goes in!!! Grease up the pot and slide the outer rubber over it and push it up until it locates in the groove in the top of the pot. Then pull the seal down and out of the groove, this gives you a 5mm or so leeway, keep sliding the seal down until there is only the top 5mm left on the pot and the rest is hanging down from the bottom.
Now the tricky bit, holding the pot place it in line then tilt towards the back of the caliper slightly. While it's like this you can easily push the front of the seal into place, now when you push the piston in (screw it in for rears) the pot will push the seal into place. This was the easiest way I found after about 30 mins of getting angry Laughing

All done, 11pm sat night and covered in black dust but red brakes Very Happy
Sat was a 13 hour day just working on the calipers, tired but feeling acomplished. Certainly took longer than I thought. Bolting everything to the car took a lot less time and was far easier and everything was thouroughly bled as the fluid was black. Nice new fluid now.

First rear on, looking good.

First front, mmmmmm.

Nice!

Wheels need cleaning again.
Copper grease is your friend for a job like this and blue (medium) stud lock on important bits we don't want undone. All the bleed nipples have copper grease on the threads to try and stop them rusting in. If anyone wants to try or is trying this just remember it takes a lot of time but fairly easy from a technical standpoint. If you want help/advice just pm and I'll see if I can help, really is worth it for the "I did that"/"job well done" feeling
Update for the future, this is why the pics off Confused will help as the caliper assemble process is in much detail in the pics