Lude Generation

I own this lady for more than 10 years. At the beginning it was 2,0 16v but I decided to make a small beast and build H22A turbo and 4WS.

First step was to buy a engine, then send the block to the USA - to Mrs. Benson - to do darton sleeves.





Then I started shopping parts.

CP pistons (87mm low compression 8.5:1)



Eagle rods



Here are some modifications:


BENSON's darton sleeved in USA
Supertech dual valve spring set
Supertech exhaust and intake valves
Supertech titanium retainers
Machine shop (new stem valve seals)
RC 750 injector high impedance
Fuel pressure regulator
Warlbro fuel pump LPH 255
modified positive crankshaft ventilation system
double butterfly removed
GM 3bar MAP sensor
Hondata intake gasket
ARP head bolts
Gates T226RB / T186RB Racing Timing & Balancer Belt
Manual tension conversion kit with new bearings for the belt
Genuine head gasket
New genuine rod and main bearings
New ignition coil, rotor, cap, ignition control module, plug NGK BKR11
New IAT sensor (intake air temperature)
New oil pump
New water pump
New IAC valve
SIMOTA intake filter
A-M-A turbo headers + downpipe
76mm exhaust system
Tial wastegate F38 set for 1.6 bar with springs
Garett T3/60-1 turbo –
Turbine Housing SPA A/R .63
TURBO WORKS heat shield for turbine hausing
Double rows aluminium water cooler
intercooler
SIMOTA air filter
ACT clutch - HA3-XTSS - XT/Perf Street Sprung
Torque Capacity (ft/lbs.): 385
Torque Capacity Over OE: 95%
dynamically computer balanced
premium organic friction materials for heat tolerance

(spare clutch - Clutchmaster ceramic )
Fidanza lightened flywheel
Quaife slip ATB differential QDF5U
Transmission with new LSD bearings
Short shifter OBX
Innovate Motorsport LC1 programmable wideband
Innovate Motorsport MTX-D – oil temp and pressure gauge
AEM boost controller
Hondata S300 computer
obd2a->obd1 conversion cable
GMB new water pump
Energy Suspension motor mounts inserts

After completion of engine, next problem was with headers because I wanted to save air conditioning.
So my friend make me custom one. It takes almost 2 weeks, but he did a good job.

Next step was connection of all sensors (oil temp, oil pressure, air fuel ratio, boost)

That is an impressive spec. Where do you live? The exhaust manifold looks very nice.


It is best not to run your oil pressure sensor directly off the sandwich plate as it can snap off through vibration. You should run a capillary line from the oil cooler (or OEM pressure sensor location) to a remote oil pressure sensor

Are you planning on fitting an external oil cooler?

Thank you Merlin. I´m from Slovak republic.
Many people running with oil sensor like I am and without problems.

Quife LSD with new bearings, there was small problem, that bearings are conic, so preload have to be set up with shim.
(every time when the bearings are replaced or dif)

haRRibo929 wrote:Many people running with oil sensor like I am and without problems.

Perhaps they do but it is not best practice. If you loose your oil it could be bye bye engine, all for a £10 capillary line.


Inside of the gearbox is too complicated for me I got a local specialist to do my one. Props! for getting in there

there is alarm on oil gauge if something happened with sensor or pressure or temp

this is not cheap one (made by Innovate Motorsport )

do you have a picture of your solution?

The way I do it is to run a capillary line from the OEM pressure sensor location on the back of the block, replacing the OEM pressure sensor which is useless, to a remote oil pressure sensor that I have mounted up near the bulkhead/firewall. I chose the OEM pressure sensor location to take a feed from for 2 reasons; you reportedly get a better/more true pressure reading from this location and that my oil sandwich plate did not have enough room (it is thermostatic plate that supplies my external oil cooler over a specific oil temperature).


http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/post164776.html#p164776

I have read that electrical oil pressures sensors can be sensitive to vibration, it can harm the internal mechanisms and there is the potential for the unit to snap off any solid surface it is directly mounted too. I would think that the risk of it being damaged is increased with stiffer engine mounts. Plus it reduces the amount of crap at the rear of the engine, increasing the amount of room to work in.

merlinmotorsport wrote:It is possible to remotely mount the sender using ....... hose and fittings. The .... hose is screwed to the T-piece or adaptor, and is then run to anywhere that is suitably sized to take the sender. This is often on an inner wing or bulkhead. The sender can then be held in place using a bracket or similar.



Not only does this make fitting easier, it also prolongs the life of the sensor. All analogue sensors have small moving parts inside which can be susceptible to damage due to vibrations from the engine when screwed straight in to the block.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/know ... essure-278

yes this should be very good too

but sensor need to be lower then connection due to that air can stay into the added pipe and can evoke inaccuranccy in to the measuring

I still have also original sensor connected to ECU in case something happened with this one

hope you will understand my English

Your English is very good.

True air in the line is a potential issue. Thankfully I have not experienced that problem myself, I get good constant pressure readings. The OEM pressure sensor is more of a "your engine is now broken" light rather than a warning light. The OEM pressure sensor activates the warning light at 6 PSI, a stock H22 needs a minimum of 10 PSI at idle, so if you light ever comes on it is likely damage has been done