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1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - starting to update the profile...
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
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Re: 1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - trigger happy
Thanks people.
lots and lots more progress since I last updated this!

--
Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21503
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
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Re: 1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - trigger happy
Right, time for another barrage of photo's catching some of the work up from back in April.
After the quick blow over with etch to stop it rusting over the (freezing cold/damp) week, the next weekend I rubbed it all back down again, so that any runs and anythign not properly adhered, would come off. Plus also gave the slam panel loads more attention;




More priming followed. I needed to move on between coats quickly (limited time) so had a word with ratty who said it would be fine if I flash it off with a decent IR heat lamp. Bought a 'pukka' body panel 1k panel lamp but it had limited area coverage, so topped it up with 2k lamp from machine mart

Both of them on the go;



Covering of etch;


I'm anal and like my original stickers
so masked over them;


White primer over the top;





Looks great from a distance;



Slam panel really got on my tits. Hate these bits on it, which you couldn't really see until white primering. Shows up everything




So more bloody rubbing down, knifing putty, rubbing down again;


Re-prime;


The U-pol etch primer is way better than Halfords stuff, so I bought some of their hi-build primer to try as well;


Amazing stuff. Absolutely fabulous coverage and sprays so nicely. Brilliant product
So after some of that and then topping up with more white primer, the slam panel looked like this;
A bit better;


Much better
After the quick blow over with etch to stop it rusting over the (freezing cold/damp) week, the next weekend I rubbed it all back down again, so that any runs and anythign not properly adhered, would come off. Plus also gave the slam panel loads more attention;




More priming followed. I needed to move on between coats quickly (limited time) so had a word with ratty who said it would be fine if I flash it off with a decent IR heat lamp. Bought a 'pukka' body panel 1k panel lamp but it had limited area coverage, so topped it up with 2k lamp from machine mart


Both of them on the go;



Covering of etch;


I'm anal and like my original stickers



White primer over the top;





Looks great from a distance;



Slam panel really got on my tits. Hate these bits on it, which you couldn't really see until white primering. Shows up everything





So more bloody rubbing down, knifing putty, rubbing down again;


Re-prime;


The U-pol etch primer is way better than Halfords stuff, so I bought some of their hi-build primer to try as well;




Amazing stuff. Absolutely fabulous coverage and sprays so nicely. Brilliant product

So after some of that and then topping up with more white primer, the slam panel looked like this;
A bit better;


Much better

--
Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21503
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
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- Been thanked: 312 times
Re: 1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - trigger happy
So after that, it was time to start top coating.
I was going for black at the bottom, same as it had before - this is the area visible through the bumper grille at all times though the front of the car, so makes sense;

I used a B&Q satin black - I've tried several different satin blacks (different manufacturers) and this is the one I like the best. Nice decent coverage without overloading while spraying and I prefer the finish over all the others.
Top was done with Holts Frost White;

No need to neatly mask off a clean line - you can't see it from outside the car and tbh, the blended effect is more subtle!

I hadn't gone anal about filling the blisters around the headlight orifices, cause you'll never see this. The drivers side look a bit cack close but all the rust was treated/removed and is now properly protected, so that's what matters.

Same goes lower down;

(you do get some odd reactions in some places between the 2 top coats over each other)
Pax side much better on the blisters front;

Then lacquered over the top of the Frost white;

I used a monofil clear lacquer.




Lots more action from these bad boys;



I could fine wet sand it back to get a spot on finish, but meh, it's a slam panel, it looks good enough just lacquered up;

I topped up the white/black line a bit more neatly in the end (didn't like the slight 'reaction' look from earlier. Topped it over with more satin black.



Overall, not a bad base to work with (massively better than when I started and no rust now!
) now onto all the jobby that gets stuck on it 
When I peeled off the masking paper, the nice neat slam panel showed up the paint on the bottom of rad (some had flaked off, showing the copper)
so, even though you'll never see it, I gave it a quick blow over

And once I'd done that, I decided the rest of the rad wasn't up to scratch, so did the whole thing

I was going for black at the bottom, same as it had before - this is the area visible through the bumper grille at all times though the front of the car, so makes sense;

I used a B&Q satin black - I've tried several different satin blacks (different manufacturers) and this is the one I like the best. Nice decent coverage without overloading while spraying and I prefer the finish over all the others.
Top was done with Holts Frost White;

No need to neatly mask off a clean line - you can't see it from outside the car and tbh, the blended effect is more subtle!

I hadn't gone anal about filling the blisters around the headlight orifices, cause you'll never see this. The drivers side look a bit cack close but all the rust was treated/removed and is now properly protected, so that's what matters.

Same goes lower down;

(you do get some odd reactions in some places between the 2 top coats over each other)
Pax side much better on the blisters front;


Then lacquered over the top of the Frost white;

I used a monofil clear lacquer.




Lots more action from these bad boys;



I could fine wet sand it back to get a spot on finish, but meh, it's a slam panel, it looks good enough just lacquered up;

I topped up the white/black line a bit more neatly in the end (didn't like the slight 'reaction' look from earlier. Topped it over with more satin black.



Overall, not a bad base to work with (massively better than when I started and no rust now!


When I peeled off the masking paper, the nice neat slam panel showed up the paint on the bottom of rad (some had flaked off, showing the copper)



And once I'd done that, I decided the rest of the rad wasn't up to scratch, so did the whole thing


--
Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21503
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
- Has thanked: 2498 times
- Been thanked: 312 times
Re: 1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - trigger happy
Next up was the treat the body cavities;
Inside the back of the inner sills looked generally good


But not perfect, as you'd expect. Nothing serious that needed any work (it's all completely solid) but needs treating to stop it going;



This is where the repair panel for the arches had been cut in at the bottom on one side;

The white stuff you can see isn't nitin turd (this is a 4 not a 5g, after all), it's the bonding they used in the seam between the inner and outer arch and where the corners of the new/old panels lap over/meet at the other joins, to seal it.
And on the other side;


Some more views looking back, higher up;




Quick clean up inside as best as poss, vacumming out and then whiping over with a damp cloth and treating any visble rust I could see/get at;




Then onto this bad boy;

Inside all the rear box sections too (don't want a repeat of what mart suffered with his
)


Then into the arches from the back;




Then the front;





For this job, so long as you don't block the drain holes in the sills, more is definitely more
Inside the back of the inner sills looked generally good


But not perfect, as you'd expect. Nothing serious that needed any work (it's all completely solid) but needs treating to stop it going;



This is where the repair panel for the arches had been cut in at the bottom on one side;

The white stuff you can see isn't nitin turd (this is a 4 not a 5g, after all), it's the bonding they used in the seam between the inner and outer arch and where the corners of the new/old panels lap over/meet at the other joins, to seal it.
And on the other side;


Some more views looking back, higher up;




Quick clean up inside as best as poss, vacumming out and then whiping over with a damp cloth and treating any visble rust I could see/get at;




Then onto this bad boy;

Inside all the rear box sections too (don't want a repeat of what mart suffered with his



Then into the arches from the back;




Then the front;





For this job, so long as you don't block the drain holes in the sills, more is definitely more

--
Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21503
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
- Has thanked: 2498 times
- Been thanked: 312 times
Re: 1995 White BB4 Si Vtec - belated update (not finished)
Dinitrol is a brand of rust treatment/preventative products. They do a range of stuff in a range of packages.
https://dinitrol.co.uk/
Sometimes cheaper to buy off their website, sometimes cheaper off their eBay store. Depends what/how much you're buying, so check both.
3125 is the cavity wax. Way better than waxoyl at running into cavities and seams. Dries sort of tacky. Doesn't run again etc and you can't wipe it off without a solvent (white spirit).
Depending on where I'm using it, I then sometimes go over the top with 4941, which is an underbody sealer.
https://dinitrol.co.uk/
Sometimes cheaper to buy off their website, sometimes cheaper off their eBay store. Depends what/how much you're buying, so check both.
3125 is the cavity wax. Way better than waxoyl at running into cavities and seams. Dries sort of tacky. Doesn't run again etc and you can't wipe it off without a solvent (white spirit).
Depending on where I'm using it, I then sometimes go over the top with 4941, which is an underbody sealer.
--
Iain.
Iain.
Super Secret 1G (not really super secret!)