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Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

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jjmartin349571
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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:37 pm

Well I was incredibly hung over yesterday, the result of a pub session/house party that went on until almost 4am :lol: this meant that none of the work I planned on the Prelude got done :(

Anyway, today I'm feeling better and have started work again. Got the car up on stands to start with as almost everything I need to do today is underneath the engine

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First job was to unbolt the clevis pin from the shift rod and the gearbox. Access was a nightmare, but by combining every socket extension I own, I was able to unbolt it from above. I then scrambled under and detached it.

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I then removed the centre section of the sub frame, which gave me access to the bolt securing the torque rod next to the shift rod. I unbolted that as well, and have just come in for a bite to eat. Once I'm done I'll be back out to remove the downpipe bracket and drive shafts, then remove the speedo sensor, and then I'll be ready to crack the engine mounts and pull the engine hopefully. I may well have forgotten something though :lol:

Noticed this whilst I was under the car as well

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Looks like I'll be replacing some boots then!!

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Post by wurlycorner » Sun Sep 01, 2013 3:23 pm

:roll:

Definitely got your work cut out with this one jj - I salute you!!!

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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:21 pm

wurlycorner wrote::roll:

Definitely got your work cut out with this one jj - I salute you!!!
Yeah, lots of work to do unfortunately :( However - once it's done, it's done. And this car will have a lot of nice new parts, plus all new fluids in the gearbox, engine, rad, power steering, brakes etc... I'm even going to stock up on nuts and bolts, and clean the block whilst it's out, and ensure that as much as possible that goes in to or on to it is new. I'm also contemplating buying a gasket kit, and stripping and rebuilding the block, although I'm not sure if I just want to get it MOT'd first. At any rate, hopefully it'll keep going for another 26 years once I'm finished - Then when I'm 49 I can rebuild it all again :lol:

Anyway, here's Sunday part 2:

Removed manifold bracket nuts with a bendy socket thingy and a long extension. I bought a mega long extension today which also has a wobbly end - I've got to say with the right tools life is so much easier :lol:

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Then had to disconnect the down pipe from the manifold. On the last car I tried to do this on I rounded off the nuts, and had to break out the grinder, so I was kind of apprehensive here. I didn't have any 6 sided sockets in my tool kit wither (cheap-arse halfrauds kit) so I nipped over to Halfrauds to get a 14mm socket. Would you believe they didn't have any at all with 6 sides, bar a 1/2" drive deep socket which I begrudgingly bought. Turned out this was actually a good thing as the nuts were stuck fast so I had to get my 2' breaker bar out, which coincidentally was 1/2" drive :) After getting all 4 nuts going I used a smaller ratchet and a wobbly extension to remove the nuts. Cue badly taken photo

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Clutch cable was next on the list...I've no idea of the official method for removing this, however it was impossible to do with the release arm down, and I couldn't move it up by hand. Instead I had my girlfriend press the clutch pedal, and i jammed a bar under the release arm. Then when Laura released the pedal, there was enough slack in the cable to release it. drokk knows how I'll get it back in again :lol:

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The top torque arm came off next. Just an aside for anyone nerdy like me, but I've found the arrangement of the mounts on this car to be quite interesting... The gearbox is mounted to the centre beam of the sub frame, and it's not bolted down, it just has a rubber block that sits in a bracket. There is an engine mount at the front and rear of the block, low down, and also one on the nearside low down. These are complimented by two massive torque bars, one at the top and one at the bottom. I'd be interested to know if this is purely a result of the unusual angle the engine sits at, or if there's a performance benefit in mind by making sure the engine cannot move in it's mounts as much as possible. The accord definitely feels very planted as soon as you dump the clutch and hit the throttle.

Anyway, torque arm unbolted and positioned up and out the way

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Speed sensor next, and the first major stumbling block :( I've taken the retaining bolt out, but will it budge? Will it drokk :evil: Even more annoyingly, I can just about persuade it to rotate slightly, but it won't come out. Has anyone one removed one similar to this before? Are they usually bastards or am I doing something wrong :? The offending article:

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Real pain in the arse as now it's only the speed sensor and drive shafts to go and I can pull the engine. Job for next weekend I think! For now I've put it back together bar the grille and left it on stands. During the week I will try and get the ball joints apart and drive shafts out, although the ball joints are rusted to buggery :|

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I'm having thoughts about a new front grille also, the USDM Si had a honeycomb one, I'm thinking it might be a bit sportier looking than the one I have currently :)

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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:28 am

Time for an update I guess :) the BA2 is still up on stands on my drive, however I've now removed everything necessary to remove the engine bar the mounts. When we get a dry weekend I will get out there and pull the lump. I may even just man up and do it in the wet this weekend :lol:

At any rate, bad weather outside hasn't stopped me playing around in the garage. I fitted a radiator last week and I never took the carpets out when I unconverted the room, so it's a pretty cosy place to hide ;) tonight I decided to tackle a job that needs doing before the MOT, which is replacing a CV boot. Whilst nosing around under the car previously, I spied that the offside outer boot was completely severed, so seeing as the driveshafts are now out the car it's ideal timing to sort it. I've chosen to use universal stretch boots - whether they'll last we'll have to see, but at a 10th of the cost of boots from Honda I thought why not! No need to take the CV joint apart either, which is a result in my book :lol:

So for those of you interested or that haven't seen this before, here's some photos of the replacement. Sorry it's not very exciting :lol:

Here's the offending boot. As you can see its split all the way around, so no chance of an MOT pass :(

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I promise I didn't cut that open :lol: the two halves were completely separated already!

First step was to remove the clips at the ends of the boots, then cut them off the driveshaft.

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It's nice and greasy in there :lol: I've no idea how long the boot was split for, and how much dirt was able to get in, so I cleaned everything up

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As the boot was going on an outer joint, I turned it inside out ready to be installed using a cone. I then broke out the 'cone lube' and got busy :lol: once lubed up and ready to go, I whacked the cone on an upturned mallet so that I could use both hands to slide the boot up the cone. I definitely couldn't have done it one handed, the boot is very elastic and just wants to catapult off the cone if you even hint at letting up the pressure! No pictures of me pulling the boot down for obvious reasons, so just imagine me covered in lube and swearing a lot...

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Once it was over the cone, I took the cone off the mallet and pulled it over the outer shaft. A bit of a struggle later and the boot was on the driveshaft. I took the cone off, and popped the boot the right way round - not easy when covered in lube but I got there in the end. Clean up time followed as the immediate area was very slippery by now.

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The outermost 'rib' of the boot was a few mm too large in diameter, so out came Stanley and I trimmed it off. The next rib is a nice snug fit fortunately. After that I packed the joint with fresh grease, and popped a couple of clips on to the boot

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The clips aren't crimped yet as I'm going to get the proper tool, however all in all I'm pretty pleased with how that went! It was a very messy job, however that's one job I can strike off for the MOT preparation - and not too pricey at £7.99 all in as well, with a boot left over to put on my other Prelude.

Roll on the weekend for the clutch!

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Post by wurlycorner » Fri Sep 27, 2013 9:46 am

Nice work, I'm sure yiu enjoyed all that slipping around :D

What's the small rubber joint covers inboard of the main cv joints on that driveshaft? Does it have a sliding middle, or something?

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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:52 pm

wurlycorner wrote:Nice work, I'm sure yiu enjoyed all that slipping around :D

What's the small rubber joint covers inboard of the main cv joints on that driveshaft? Does it have a sliding middle, or something?
The drive shafts are fitted with harmonic dampeners, those boots are fitted either end of the dampener.

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Post by wurlycorner » Fri Sep 27, 2013 6:50 pm

What do you reckon the 'harmonic damper' actually consists of? Just a bit of rubber glued on the outside of the metal shaft?

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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:19 pm

wurlycorner wrote:What do you reckon the 'harmonic damper' actually consists of? Just a bit of rubber glued on the outside of the metal shaft?
Thought I'd replied to this!! It's a piece of machined metal as far as I can tell, although corrosion has made mine a bit rough around the edges :?

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Re: Josh's BA2 Prelude GSi

Post by jjmartin349571 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:51 pm

This weekend was a big one! I hope you guys like photos...

Finally pulled the engine. Was hoping I'd have help but all my mates were busy :roll: So I thought drokk it, got out the beers and got busy

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Clearance was a dancer in the engine bay, probably because I didn't want to take the ancillaries off. Probably should have done in hindsight, as I've bent 2 of the ALB hard lines... I' either going to have to buy or make some replacements before I'm back on the road :evil: The auxiliary belts had a tough time of it too, but they look pretty jobby anyway so will be replaced before the car goes back on the road.

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Out she comes

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Gold top goodness :)

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Plenty of room in the bay now. I've started cleaning, but the grime was too thick for my car shampoo/water mix, so I'm going to get something a bit stronger, and clean the whole thing down before the engine goes back in. Might as well make the most of the engine being out after all!

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Now the engine is out I just pull the starter motor away...

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and then separate the gearbox from the engine. This was a muffin to get off, it was clinging on to the engine for it's life but I got there in the end :lol:

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Here's the old clutch pressure plate, clutch and flywheel. I used a crow bar to hold the flywheel whilst I undid the pressure plate bolts, ideally I'd have used a ring gear holder but needs must!

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And here's the old clutch. As you can see it's completely drokked, no wonder the car wouldn't move. Check out the difference between the old and new clutch in the 3rd pic!

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Gave everything a clean with brake cleaner, then started reassembling. In goes the clutch assembly, aided by the alignment tool. I found that you had to tighten the pressure plate to the point where you could barely move the clutch in order for the alignment tool to work, any looser any it let the clutch drop as you tightened the pressure plate.

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Next up it was time to break out some parking skills and get the Golf as close to the garage wall as possible in order that I had more room to work indoors. I took a photo as I was pleased with how close I got without touching the wall, using no mirrors! :lol:

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After all that, it was time to do some gearbox related stuff in the comfort of my garage. Here's the old clutch release bearing, as you can see it was a bit past it. Rotating the bearing it seemed that it was 'dry', so was definitely up for replacement.

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So out came the bolt from the release fork, then I pulled out the release shaft. This was tedious, as it was stuck fast, even using leverage it took a lot to get the thing moving. As more of it came out it got better though, and eventually (after a lot of swearing) it was out.

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After that all came out, I got a brass wire brush and had a quick clean up. I've probably inhaled/consumed unhealthy amounts of clutch dust as a result of this :? I'd recommend a mask if anyone else does this!

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Hopefully my girlfriend won't notice I used the hoover to suck the dirt out the clutch housing :lol:

Then I put the new release bearing/fork combo together, and greased it up with some molybdenum grease. Had to be careful not to leave any excess as apparently it can fly off all over the shop when the car is running - not good news inside the clutch housing.

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After that I just slipped it over the main shaft, which I pre-applied a thin film of grease too, again being careful to wipe up any excess once the release bearing was on. Then in went the release shaft, much smoother this time with fresh grease on it. Then I stood back and admired my work :lol:

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Didn't admire it for long though, as I then had to nip outside and put the gearbox back on the engine. It was a ball ache doing it alone, but fortunately the clutch was aligned ok so once I got it lined up everything just slipped together :) I did up the bolts, and all was well bar one which just spins without actually engaging a thread :(

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So close, but so far! At any rate, by this time Laura had made me a nice risotto, so I've chucked a tarp over the engine and left it be for now. I'm going to have to figure out what to do about that bolt, then it's just a matter of servicing the car and getting the engine back in, and then I can forget about doing any work on this car for a bit.

All in all I'm pleased with the progress I made this weekend though!

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Post by mercutio » Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:00 pm

hope you cleaned out the hoover :lol: all that asbestos dust being pumped round the house :shock:
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